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Extreme in the best possible way - that was the hallmark of a truly memorable Lake District minibreak.
At rest, we nestled in the lavish modern comforts of Borrowdale’s stylishly evolving Leathes Head Hotel.
At play, we defied gravity, dangling precariously on a subterranean, newly opened climb high in the roof of historic Honister Slate Mine.
It was rounded off with a wobbly and, frankly, terrifying, wind-slapped crossing of more than 500ft on a single “wire” over a plunging chasm - the mine’s newly opened Infinity bridge, the longest of its kind in the UK, some 2,000ft above the valley.
The Leathes Head is an elegant 11-bedroom Edwardian country house hotel, conveniently close to Keswick, but just off the “beaten track” alongside the Derwent river.
It has breathtaking views across the fells, inviting easy strolls to the lake’s edge and beyond.
Managers Jamie and Jane are warm, welcoming, friendly hosts - in a quiet but generous way - just like the hotel.
Our spacious Superior Room was faultlessly comfortable, with attention to every detail, from the enormous flat screen TV with movies on tap, to the huge fluffy bath sheets and Gilchrist and Soames toiletries.
Therapeutic times passed gazing into the rolling yonder and upon the gambolling Herdwick lambs.
Tirelessly engaging were the endless activity of pheasants, dunnocks, great tits, chaffinches, robins and a lesser spotted woodpecker right outside.
There is free WiFi throughout the hotel. Accommodation includes a wonderful conservatory with binoculars, bird guides and photobooks featuring different local walks, a cosy lounge with awood fire and the adjoining bar, offering fine selections of single malts, gins, ports, and decent regional ales too.
Award winning head chef David Jackson is passionate about his food, gaining the restaurant a 1AA Rosette. Locally grown and reared produce is key to this classic fine dining with a modern twist.
Sitting in a stunning landscape, primed for action including climbing, hiking, cycling, water sports and more, the hotel is an ideal base for all ages and energies.
Honister Slate Mine is on the doorstep, albeit a steep doorstep up a 20% incline in places, from Derwent Water at 246ft above sea level to the top of Fleetwith Pike, the pinnacle of an old miners’ trail, 2,126ft above the briny .
It is a breathtaking, short bus ride on the seasonal Honister Rambler which operates on a loop, including Buttermere, Keswick and Honister Pass.
The subterranean Tolkien-esque mine climb felt perilous and was challenging, but like the via ferratas or “iron ways” enabling visitors to climb the mountain outside with metal cables, rungs, ladders and bridges, safeguards are stringent and guides expertly reassuring.
With my adrenaline and endorphin levels up, muscles warm, vertigo somewhat conquered and a great sense of achievement post mine climb - I surpassed myself crossing THAT bridge.
Wobbling above the chasm was extremely nerve-racking, made more so by strong gusts of wind and the “Honister crack”, a loud bang as the wind blew back on itself.
The day was complete with a stomp up the hillside opposite, ducking in thrilled terror as a pair of Hawk trainer jet planes roared from nowhere just above our heads, disappearing far below into the valley.
The contrasts in our visit, albeit short, went from sharp to very, very sweet, from the ridiculously exciting Honister Slate Mine to the sublime solace of The Leathes Head. We want more.
TRIP DETAILS:
We travelled to The Lakes by train, using the fast service to St Pancras and Virgin Trains from Euston north, theoretically a mere five hours between Canterbury and Penrith stations, with enough time to grab a sandwich in London. Borrowdale is a 40-minute car journey from Penrith.
The Leathes Head hotel is at Borrowdale, Keswick, Cumbria, CA12 5UY, see www.leatheshead.co.uk, call 01768 777247.
Honister Slate Mine, with its 900 years of history, is open all year at Honister Pass, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5XN, see www.honister-slate-mine.co.uk, on 01768 777230.
A special Father’s Day treat package combines Subterranean Climb The Mine and a stay at The Leathes Head.