Despite a start to summer that’s beginning to feel a bit like a washout, I have managed to pick a pretty much perfect day for this wander along the hills outside Wye.

High clouds overhead, a gentle breeze and not a drop of rain to be seen. It makes for ideal conditions to enjoy a stroll, a pub lunch in a wonderful riverside beer garden and some of the best views you’ll find in any part of the county.

The day’s exertions begin at Wye railway station, just a few minutes up the line from the junction at Ashford. Crossing the River Stour, I pass by the Tickled Trout pub, and its aforementioned garden, which is where my meanderings will conclude later on after about 10km and two hours on my feet.

Walking through and out of the village, I strike out roughly south-east, hoping to walk broadly parallel to the hills to my left before making the climb to the ridge and heading back towards Wye.

It’s all plain sailing for the first little while, but before long the footpaths are becoming increasingly overgrown and difficult to pick out. Swearing under my breath to myself, I all of a sudden discover myself in what appears to be – and indeed is – someone’s spacious back garden. A pack of (thankfully small and yappy) dogs come careering around a hedge towards me, and I beat a swift retreat the way I came.

This minor detour aside, the route is well-marked and relatively easy-going. I have a splendid view of the 180ft Wye Crown, carved into the chalk of the hills, which is something of a local landmark. It was created in 1902 by students from the Wye Agricultural College to mark the coronation of Edward VII, and the Kentish Express of that year observed that it was “one of the most suitable commemorations in the county”.

The view of the crown gives me some idea of the path ahead, because in a short while I’ll be passing along the hillside above it. Before I reach that point I follow a footpath which passes through the fields below, north of the small village of Brook and on towards the Wye National Nature Reserve.

Reaching Brabourne Road, it’s time to swing northwards and make the steep climb to the ridge of the Downs. I’ve opted for what should, if my extremely rudimentary map-reading skills are anything to go by, be one of the less onerous routes to the top. But it’s a proper slog. I’m heaving in great lungfuls of air, and have to stop on occasion to catch my breath.

But it is an effort well rewarded once I reach the top, turning back towards the Weald to take in the most stunning views out across Brook, Ashford and the countryside for miles around.

Pausing by a seat – which one of my mapping apps describes, with some understatement, as the “bench with a view” – I fall into conversation with an older chap who has come striding towards me from the direction of Wye. He appears to be a serious walker, brandishing walking poles and a Thermos of coffee, and we fall into easy conversation about our plans for the day. We part with a cheery goodbye and each head in our opposite directions.

Minutes later I’m presented with one of the natural highlights of this particular part of the county: the Devil’s Kneading Trough. One of the largest and most famous steep-sided dry valleys that characterise the Kent Downs, it is a truly spectacular natural feature from where, on a perfectly clear day, you can see as far as the English Channel. Kent’s topography may be relatively low-key, but it’s a great reminder that there are still spots of wonder in the landscape to be discovered – another hidden gem in the county to add to the list.

From here to the top of the Wye Crown the path is well marked and maintained, with signs warning walkers to proceed with caution in areas where cattle are grazing. Not wishing to risk being trampled by the small herd of cows I stumble across a short while later, I tiptoe gingerly by – close enough to rouse them from their chewing of the cud, but far enough up a small slope that I’d back myself (foolishly, I’m sure) to make the gate a few metres away.

After one last pause to take in the splendid view of Wye below, it’s soon time to start winding through thickets of trees to join the path which will lead me gently down to the village and my well-earnt stop for lunch. Wye is a gorgeous little village, and my wander through the centre on this summer’s day prompts a bit of mild Rightmove browsing once I reach the pub. No harm in a bit of day-dreaming about a new life in the country.

Arriving at the Tickled Trout shortly after midday, the place is already doing a roaring trade, with tables in its lovely little garden on the banks on the Stour increasingly hard to come by as the Friday lunchtime rush picks up. I opt for a pint of their Trout Pout ale and a chicken and avocado sandwich, before taking a seat at a picnic bench and indulging in a spot of idle people-watching.

It’s been a fine morning’s walking, with the odd stretch to really test the legs – and I’d heartily recommend Wye as the starting point for an exploration of the Kent Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The railway station, and a selection of good pubs, makes the village the ideal start and finish for a loop through the Kent countryside, and the views from the hills are magnificent. I board the train home feeling certain I’ll be returning soon.