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I think it is fair to say that few recent restaurant openings in Kent have generated as much hype as the coming of The Ivy to Canterbury.
The city centre brasserie opened its doors to the public last week after much fanfare, so it seemed only right we get in there on the first weekend to see if all the fuss has been warranted.
Arriving shortly before 2pm on Saturday afternoon, we found the place absolutely buzzing. The vast majority of tables were occupied by diners, people were perched at the impressive central bar, and smartly turned-out staff were bustling about in a whirl of activity.
The building, which was previously home to the Burton and Dorothy Perkins clothes shops, has been impressively transformed, with plenty of high-end touches and some striking art on the walls.
Looking over the menu, we were presented with an array of options, ranging from the traditional – shepherd’s pie, fish and chips – to dishes with Asian, Middle Eastern and South American influences. Such was the choice that we had to ask our attentive server for a bit more time to make our selections.
We decided to sample the traditional and the more exotic. To start we went for the roasted scallops (£15.75) and the crispy duck salad (£10.95), and for our main course we opted for truffle chicken Milanese (£19.95) and the blackened cod fillet (£21.95).
Both the starters proved to be a hit. The duck salad was a pleasing mix of textures and flavours, with the kick of the ginger and hoisin sauce pairing nicely with the sweetness of the watermelon.
The scallops were the very definition of a classic. The plump meat was complemented by the delicate truffle and Parmesan emulsion, and the creamed spinach and the potato puffs gave the dish the heft to make it a filling affair.
We had opted for a bottle of the house white (£32), a Portuguese Cintila, which on first taste had not appeared to be anything special. But when paired with the food it came to life and proved a very enjoyable drop.
Duly impressed by the starters, we were eagerly anticipating the next course. Sides had to be ordered separately, and we had chosen the thick-cut chips (£5.95) to accompany the chicken and the tomato and coriander salad (£4.75) to go alongside the cod.
Unfortunately, the mains did not quite hit the same heights as the starters. The chicken Milanese was a sizeable cutlet and had been cooked with some skill to maintain plenty of juicy moisture, but the brioche-crumb coating was a little heavy and the truffle sauce was so rich that we ended up just dabbing a little onto the chicken for fear of overwhelming it.
The soy-glazed cod was certainly flavourful but felt like something you could just as easily rustle up at home. The chips were chips, perfectly adequate but hard to justify the price tag, and the tomato salad was slightly underwhelming. Perhaps a bit late in the year to be at their best?
If that all sounds like criticism, it really isn’t meant to. The food was all of a solid standard, and we finished our meal feeling quite upbeat about the overall experience. But perhaps the hype in the run-up to the restaurant’s opening had left us expecting to be blown away.
The Ivy is, I am sure, going to prove a much-loved addition to the Canterbury food scene. The atmosphere was buzzy and everyone around us seemed to be having a whale of a time.
There are certainly more exciting places to eat in the east of the county, but if you’re looking for a reliable dining option with a menu packed with something for everyone then you will not go far wrong here.
I can definitely see this being the place to come for big family celebrations or for a pit stop while out shopping in the cathedral city.
If you want classic dishes served in comfortable, classy surroundings then The Ivy has you covered. I suspect it will prove a great hit with the people of Canterbury.
Ratings out of five:
Food: Solid cooking with a menu offering something for everyone, but maybe go a bit more easy on the truffle ****
Drink: The house white paired well with everything we ate, but perhaps a touch pricey ***
Decor: The place has been done up to a high standard and feels quite luxurious ****
Staff: Service was prompt and attentive, and everyone seemed keen to make guests feel welcome ****
Price: On the expensive side, but that’s probably just the way it is these days ***