Eat My Words: We try The Bao Baron in Folkestone
Published: 05:00, 08 December 2022
Updated: 10:27, 08 December 2022
Broccoli in a bun. It doesn't sound too appetising, does it?
When a friend insisted I visit The Bao Baron in Folkestone and give the unusual dish a go, I wondered if it was a wind-up.
Surely buns are made for burgers or currants, not one of my least favourite vegetables?
How wrong I was.
The salt and pepper broccoli bao bun I tucked into is genuinely one of the most delicious things I have ever eaten.
More on that later - as well as the "addictive cabbage" and the steak in curry sauce.
First, a bit more about the restaurant itself.
It's located along Guildhall Street where, in the summer months, you'll see legions of Londoners - fresh off the high-speed train - marching along towards the seafront.
They'll then head down the Old High Street to reach Tontine Street or Folkestone Harbour Arm, the surroundings getting trendier the closer they get to the coastline.
I've lived in Folkestone my whole life and it has drastically changed since I was a bored teenager milling about town with my mates.
The Old High Street used to be a bit rough and a place to steer clear of.
But I recently popped into a bar down there where an "experimental folk" band were playing - watched intently by a small gathering of people with beards and berets. It was a brief visit.
Guildhall Street is not yet quite so avant-garde.
The huge Bonmarché covered in scaffolding is cramping its style.
But further along, on the corner where Luca's Cafe long stood, you will now find The Bao Baron. How did it end up here?
Head chef Greig Hughes first started serving his unique Pan-Asian street food during lockdown in a taproom in Tontine Street. He then launched a pop-up on the harbour arm.
A year ago he established its permanent location in Guidhall Street, which my wife and I visited last week.
We were shown to a cosy corner right next to a radiator - very welcome on a chilly evening.
Within seconds a small bowl of "addictive cabbage" was placed on our table.
Our attentive and informative waitress told us it's a free appetiser they offer to everyone.
Well, it was the best cabbage I've ever tasted. It was covered in a delicious tangy sauce and we absolutely could have eaten more.
My wife had a blood orange mule mocktail (£5) while I, with no draught beer available, opted for a 440ml can of Hythe Bay Homegrown pale ale (£6.80).
It was nice and hoppy and comes from the local Docker Brewery. Coincidentally, Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay started playing on the speakers as I took my first sip.
Other tunes I picked up on amid the hubbub of other diners included a bit of Bowie and Noughties classic Dancing in the Moonlight. No experimental folk music here.
It wasn't long before the aforementioned broccoli bao bun (£4.50) arrived.
Wow. The steamed bun was soft as a pillow. I'd happily eat it by itself as a dessert.
The broccoli was crunchy and spicy. Together, the whole combination melts in your mouth.
How can something so good be one of your five-a-day? If all veg tasted like this I might even turn vegan.
For her starter, my wife had the crispy squid (£7) with gochujang mayo.
Fortunately there's a handy glossary on the back of the menu. Gochujang, it says, is a savoury, sweet and spicy fermented red chilli paste from Korea.
It was delicious - and the squid was impressively meaty.
Next came a side of schichimi (Japanese spice blend - thanks, glossary) spiced fries (£4) with katsu curry sauce.
Who doesn't like chips and curry sauce? This is the ultimate version.
For the mains, our waitress recommended we try something from the new "cooked over coal" section of the menu.
I opted for the rump steak in Massaman curry sauce with roasted cashews (£16).
Steak and curry doesn't sound like a match made in heaven. But I was so glad I put my faith in our server's advice.
It was incredible - a juicy, medium-rare steak with a rich, mild sauce which "fuses Persian, Malay and Indian ingredients".
Like the broccoli bun, you simply have to try it.
My wife had the Korean fried chicken bibimbap (£16), which comes with a mound of jasmine rice and a runny fried egg erupting on top.
There is also pak choi and some sweet pickles to help balance out the salty chicken.
The Bao Baron was getting busier at this point.
Three somewhat follicly-challenged fellows - let's call them The Bald Barons - had sat on a table next to us.
"He said we've got to try the cauliflower bibimbap..." I heard one of them say. Clearly word is spreading about the restaurant.
We were already feeling full but were persuaded to try another side. The sweetcorn and lime leaf fritters (£4.50) were the perfect lighter bite, with a satisfying pop from the sweetcorn.
We'd decided to go all out and dared try to fit in a dessert too, sharing a Singapore ice cream sandwich (£6.50).
It was a sublime sweet treat to round off an amazing meal.
The next time you come to Folkestone, rather than following the herd down to the beach, it's well worth stopping off for a bite at The Bao Baron first.
It's one of Kent's hidden gems - and the food is some of the best I have ever tasted.
Ratings out of five:
Food: It made me like broccoli and cabbage. Enough said. *****
Staff: Polite, quick service and excellent recommendations. *****
Drink: It's a shame there wasn't any draught beer but the Docker ale did the job. ****
Decor: With its Japanese artwork, leafy interior and decent playlist, it's a relaxing atmosphere. ****
Price: The cost of any beer these days makes me wince, but £4.50 for that broccoli bao bun is a steal. ****
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Phil Hayes