Eat My Words: We try Annapurna Nepalese restaurant in Folkestone after being inspired by celebrity chef Andi Oliver
Published: 05:00, 30 May 2024
Updated: 08:33, 30 May 2024
Having been a journalist in Kent for more than 10 years, I’ve become familiar with the Nepalese communities here.
It’s ranged from speaking to prominent members or councillors representing issues or covering matters relating to the Gurkhas.
The one thing I’ve never really got to know properly is the nation’s cuisine.
Food plays a hugely important part in the community’s identity and I’ve only really scratched the surface so far.
So when Annapurna in Folkestone was featured on celebrity chef Andi Oliver’s latest show on the BBC highlighting the multi-cultural mix of the town, inspiration struck and I was eager to dive in.
Tucked away in Cheriton Place, a side street just off Sandgate Road, in all honesty, its kerb appeal doesn’t necessarily grab you.
But as I would soon learn, this restaurant is a classic example of not judging a book by its cover.
Stepping inside, visitors are welcomed by a mannequin dressed in Gurkha uniform referring to the proud roots Nepal still holds with Britain in serving the country through the various regiments in the Army.
We were greeted by two young lads working the bar and the tables who politely show us to our seats.
Like the outside, the decor is nothing fancy but is festooned with pictures and artwork depicting the Nepalese countryside including one vista of a village in the shadows of the Annapurna mountain range.
It was a Friday night and the tables in the restaurant were soon filled with friends and families, ready to catch up over a decent meal.
At first glance on the menu, it was evident I would be tasting food I’d never had before.
Some dishes certainly hark back to what one would find “back home”, as it were, but admittedly I wasn’t brave enough to sample the chicken gizzards or the pork ear. Perhaps another time...
But one part instantly stood out as a must-have today and the main inspiration for coming here.
With an entire section of the menu dedicated to momos of differing fillings, either steamed or fried, I was eager to try the different varieties.
So without hesitation, we ordered one pork steamed momo portion and the fried vegan ones (both £7) while we perused the rest of the menu.
Fortunately, Google was my friend in being able to decipher the names of some unfamiliar dishes.
Having learned about sekuwa (grilled meat skewers), sukuti (dried cured meats), sadheko (a spicy salad) and choila (a spiced meat dish with mustard) and scanned a vast array of starters and side dishes, we decided to get a smorgasbord of smaller plates.
What I love about this menu is how there’s so much to pick yet at the same time it is also simple.
There are not dozens of different curries to choose from for example - just one with either your choice of meat or vegetarian and cooked depending on how hot you like it.
First to arrive were the momos with a fiery chutney that starts slowly and ends with a tingling heat in the mouth.
These dumplings are packed full of flavour from the mix of spices and herbs, and steamed beautifully with the bounce almost like pasta but soft at the same time.
The vegan fried momos have a crisp outside and again delicious blend of spicing inside which then added to the chutney gets your feet tapping with excitement.
Ordering this way is fun because it’s essentially a continuous stream of dishes coming out as they’re ready from the kitchen rather than the starter-main-pud fair you might go for elsewhere.
Next out was the battered spicy prawns (£8) which are huge and simply melt in the mouth with hits of mild spicing and slight sweetness, crispy batter and the chutney adding a punch of heat.
We also went with the aloo (potato) pakoras (£5.50) which arrived golden, crispy, bursting with cumin and spices.
The selection might look “beige” in the sense there isn’t much in the way of any greens going on - but to put it bluntly, it’s not a thing in this type of cuisine and honestly, if you’re pining for a side salad, this probably isn’t the place for you.
Because believe me, the flavours are anything but beige.
My only slight critique is that each dish came with the same chutney and maybe there could be a little bit of variety there.
The lamb sekuwa (£9.50) was cooked perfectly and marinated in a blend of spices which left me oohing and ahhing yet again.
Finally out came a massive dish of puri channa (£8.50) - puffs of bread with a chickpea and potato curry - which is rich and deep in flavour with enough warming heat without knocking your socks off and leaving you reaching for the napkin to dab your brow.
I was keen to try my first foray into what you’d describe as a local’s Nepalese restaurant with no frills - and I don’t mean that in a way to downplay its style.
What it serves is absolute knock-out flavours in a home-cooked fashion with faultless results.
So much so that while writing this, I’m already excited for my next visit to explore the rest of the menu and, who knows, maybe I’ll be brave enough to try the pork ear…
Out of five:
Food: Sublime taste and generous portions made for a truly enjoyable night *****
Drink: Solid range of beers, wines and soft drinks. Go for the Gurkha Beer lager and you won’t regret it. The mango lassi to finish was delicious as well ****
Decor: Not exactly the prettiest place but substance over style is definitely the key here ***
Staff: Friendly, polite and efficient staff ****
Price: Excellent value for money with a total bill of £53.50 (tips cash only) *****
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Matt Leclere