After London, the city of Glasgow is the UK's second most popular foreign tourist destination. In the first of a series highlighting some of the city's best-kept secrets, Lesley Bellew visits the magnificent Kelvingrove Museum, home to a world-class collection of art and artefacts.

IT WAS rather a surprise to find William Strang's 1918 portrait of Kent's Vita Sackville-West hanging in the children's art corner at the revamped Kelvingrove Museum.

His bold 'Lady in a red hat' evokes an air of sophistication that seems somewhat incongruous with its surroundings - a place where youngsters belt about and get stuck in to hands-on activities.

On the opposite wall, Lowry, Constable and Turner landscapes hang at waist-height so they can be easily viewed, even by younger members of the family.

It takes a bit of getting used to but this is what Kelvingrove is all about. Visitors are encouraged to "engage, explore and join in".

Glaswegians certainly do - they feel thoroughly at home in the city's favourite attraction and are rightfully proud it's their own - some 9,000 people donated money to the refurbishment appeal and their names are on brass plaques all round the centre hall.

As part of the three-year, £30 million restoration, the Victorian system of displaying artefacts has been replaced by storylines and 'target displays' for families, under-fives, teenagers, non-experts and schools.

The art gallery is no longer on the first floor - 70 per cent of visitors never used to bother to go upstairs, so the designers have divided the building into two wings – blue for Life and red for Expression.

Priceless art is now dotted about to entice visitors to stop and look at paintings and sculptures they might not have otherwise bothered to see.

Scottish Colourists and Glasgow Boys including Henry Hornell’s Druids Bringing in the Mistletoe are now at ground level, so too, is The Last of the Clan by Thomas Faed, depicting the Highland Clearances.

It was worth the journey to Scotland to view those paintings alone but venture upstairs, and you will find the museum's piece de resistance - Salvador Dali's Christ of St John of the Cross (recently moved from the St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art in the city). This 1951 masterpiece, bought by the director of Kelvingrove art gallery Tom J. Honeyman in 1952 for £81,000, has been cunningly placed on the west balcony to lure visitors over to the blue side, between Scotland's First People gallery and Object Cinema - Life in the Arctic.

You can hear the academics whisper that perhaps the painting is more deserving of the whole new lower ground floor exhibition centre rather than a lobby but they are probably rather old-fashioned views in a museum offering new and exciting concepts.

Even if following storylines is not your scene, you will discover treasures wherever you wander - blue or red - including Rembrandt's A Man in Armour, the Portrait of Alexander Reid by Vincent van Gogh, John Flaxman’s figure of William Pitt and even the granite sarcophagus of Pa-Ba-Sa, lovingly patted by the children as they pass by. Kelvingrove Museum offers a unique and unforgettable experience - even if you do not fall into one of the target groups.

Factfile

Lesley Bellew travelled from King's Cross to Glasgow Central by GNER. Prices for return journeys start from £26.70 in standard and £71.20 first class on www.gner.co.uk GNER trains have wireless internet, which is free in first class and costs from £2.95 for 30 minutes to £9.95 for unlimited access over 24 hours.

Where to stay: Langs Hotel, 2 Port Dundas Place - a 10 minute walk from the station and perfectly situated for all the city's attractions (opposite the Royal Concert Hall and John Lewis department store). The hotel's Oshi Spa is well worth a visit. Hotel room prices from £50 per person per night. Telephone 0141 333 100 or email frontdesk@langshotel.co.uk

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AG

Phone 0141 276 9599