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Grape Escapes tour of vineyards and wineries bodegas in Castilla y Leon in Spain

For holiday-makers seeking an authentic taste of Spain, Castilla y Leon has an abundance of culture and cuisine to offer.

And from the moment you enter the countryside surrounding the city of Valladolid, it’s capital city, it becomes clear the pride of place that the grape holds.

Ribera del Duero is one of 11 high quality wine production areas in the north west region.

The vineyards of the Ribera Del Duero region
The vineyards of the Ribera Del Duero region

This upstart neighbour of La Rioja has fast become a challenger for the crown of Spanish wine production, since receiving official recognition in 1982.

A total of 240 vineyards occupy about 120 square kilometres of breath-taking countryside, with rows of vines seeming to stretch indefinitely beyond the horizon.

Central to the vineyards are the bodegas, or wineries, where grapes from the harvest are taken to be crushed, fermented, conditioned and bottled.

The Abadia Retuerta monastery and winery
The Abadia Retuerta monastery and winery

The natural beauty of the landscape is mirrored in the appearance of these majestic monuments to agricultural endeavour.

Each of the four I visited seemed to encapsulate some spirit of the region, both past and present.

Perhaps the starkest example was the Abadia Retuerta, where a state-of-the-art wine production facility shares the land with a 12th century Abbey, now a five-star hotel and spa.

Medieval castle of Peñafiel
Medieval castle of Peñafiel

A similar juxtaposition can be found at the bodegas Protos and Arzuaga Navarro, situated in sight of a medieval castle and a rustic villa respectively.

A more modern approach has been taken at the bodegas Portia.

Designed by acclaimed British architect Norman Foster, the construction of concrete, wood, steel and glass rises up from the landscape like a monolith.

The bodega Portia, designed by Norman Foster
The bodega Portia, designed by Norman Foster

As well as the production facility itself, the building contains a first-class restaurant.

Some of the area’s many delicacies – including succulent lamb, chorizo and a special sausage reminiscent of black pudding – may be sampled within.

Accompanied by a glass of their wine, of course.

Food and drink on offer at Senorita Malauva in Valladolid
Food and drink on offer at Senorita Malauva in Valladolid

For the more serious oenologist – that’s wine connoisseur to you and me – the bodegas often include wine-tasting as part of their tour.

Various guides explained some of the characteristics of the varieties we sampled, how they acquired their unique flavours and colour and how best to enjoy them.

Far from the exclusivity associated with wine in this country, this was much more inclusive. Nothing could be truer of an evening spent in Valladolid, where Gusdavo Calvo – owner of the Senorita Malauva boutique – has created a unique new experience.

Senorita Malauva owner Gusdavo Calvo
Senorita Malauva owner Gusdavo Calvo

Sr Calvo has turned the process of purchasing and consuming wine into a spectacle to be enjoyed. He offers a range of appetising tapas dishes to compliment his wide stock of bottles – both red and white.

And he organises a series of activities and games, designed to stimulate the senses, to accompany the tasting.

What became clear by the end of my stay was how the culture of wine seemed so much more relaxed and natural that back in Blighty. With many of the region’s wines now hitting the shelves of shops at home, let’s hope this is a message that’s not lost in translation.


Trip hosted by holiday firm Grape Escapes, a specialist wine tour operator who offer trips to premium European wine regions.

Flights provided by EasyJet.

Accommodation provided by Hotel Enara, wine Spa Arzuaga and hotel Rice Palacio de los Blasones.

For more information about Castilla y Leon, click here.

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