As the September sun bounced off the water’s surface and illuminated the lush Darbat valley, a small rowing boat emerged around the river’s bend.

If it hadn’t been for the presence of a traditionally dressed family aboard the vessel, we could have been forgiven for thinking we were in Northern France and not the Sultanate of Oman.

Salalah is the country’s second city and the weather during the khareef (monsoon season) means that bright green foliage erupts as far as the eye can see.

Our guide Mussallam’s Toyota off-roader climbed out of the valley and suddenly we were in the hills of Cyprus, surrounded by goats and spectacular views.

Despite the familiar scenery, the culture of this gulf state that clings to the bottom of Saudi Arabia and butts up against Yemen is unique – something which became obvious a day later as we sat behind a roadside kitchen and ate our weight in camel and rice (it’s really good, by the way) having spent the morning exploring a city centre gun market.

The trip had begun in the capital, Muscat, a more liberal and westernised city than Salalah in the south, but also a place with less to offer.

An unremarkable cruise on board a dhow (traditional ship) came alive as the sun disappeared behind the mountains revealing views which were at first invisible — sea forts and cliffs graffitied by foreign crews made for stunning memories of the city.

An evening visit to Mutrah souk will not disappoint — the scents and sights of the market complemented by the sound of a call to prayer makes for as authentic an experience as you could hope for whilst surrounded by the neon glare of Arabic fast-food restaurants.

Spending two days acclimatising in Muscat before travelling south is probably the best way to start an adventure in Oman, which is lucky as it is home to the only airport with a direct flight from London.

The most memorable experiences of the trip came on the penultimate day when we visited Mirbat, a coastal town driven by fishing which remains partially destroyed due to a ferocious battle in 1972 during the country’s 16-year civil war.

Seafood represents 10% of the nation’s income, so it was fascinating to see that the source of such a valuable resource was a handful of Omani men hauling vast crates in a tiny harbour.

Other highlights included winding through the mountains of Dhofar on the breath-taking Salalah to Hasik road, being held up by a ring of camels whilst driving across the region’s plains and visiting Khor Rori, the ruins of a port which was once the source of all the world’s frankincense.

However, I wouldn’t recommend using the biblical resin as chewing gum — according to our guide it’s the norm, although given the taste I think he may have been having us on.

The Middle Eastern nation’s message is a welcoming one, despite our cameras and curiosity the locals weren’t in the slightest bit antagonised, more bemused by the fact that what is routine to them was fascinating to us.

The level of variety experienced in the five -day trip was exceptional and left me aching to return to witness the sights which are promised by different seasons.

All this came from a place which doesn’t show up on most people’s travel radars.

If you’re still not convinced, follow the best guide in the gulf on Instagram, @salalah_adventures, to witness how spectacularly varied Oman really is.

If you are convinced email salalahadventures@gmail.com and consider hiring Mussalam for a few days; he is a great guide whose local knowledge will improve your trip significantly.

To visit the desert and swim in the sea go in November.

For green views travel between June and mid September.

How to get there — Oman Air offers daily flights from London Heathrow to Salalah via Muscat. Return economy tickets start from £725 per person. To book, call 08444 822309 or visit www.omanair.com.