I’m sure there are many who, like me, have marvelled at photographs of the aurora borealis and promised to one day head out to see them. Luckily my promise became reality when I was invited on a Magic of the Northern Lights cruise.

Unlike the other 600 or so passengers and 400 staff, I joined the Saga Sapphire in Bergen, heading towards the Arctic Circle on a 16-night round trip from Southampton, via IJmuiden, Holland, and the Norwegian ports of Bergen, Andalsnes, Alta, Tromso, Narvik and Aalesund.

The Sapphire looks like just any other cruise ship, but on board has the feel of an elegant, friendly club. Facilities include a cinema, library, bars, and three top-notch restaurants.
It also has a gym, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, sauna, steam room and a spa with aromatherapy massage guaranteed to revitalise weary muscles and spirits. Despite these distractions, talk of the Northern Lights is on everyone’s lips and hopes swing from excitement to despair when rain lashes the decks on our way northwards.
The mood falls faster than the snow in Andalsnes, as our arrival heralds the area’s first winter snowfall and views of the Romdal Valley are left mostly hidden by a veil of cloud during a trip on The Rauma Railway.
The next leg to Alta fails to raise hopes with snow squalls, but on our arrival in the crystal clear waters of Altafjord, a beautiful sunset clears the clouds of pessimism.
At 9.30pm Captain Alistair McLundie’s Tannoy announcement of aurora activity has people on deck, armed with cameras to record the spectacle. A buzz of excited chatter flows with the waves of light streaming across the sky. The clear views do not last, though, and my trip with a camera into the countryside the following night ends with nothing to show except cold feet.
Despite this I have made myself a promise to return, but not just for the Lights, but to enjoy the crisp, clean air and bask in the warm hospitality of the people who live in a place which, even without the Northern Lights, enjoys a magic of its own.
For more details about Saga cruises go to www.saga.co.uk

THINGS TO DO

Parken Gard Husky, Alta: Enjoy the freedom of dog sledding in the snow-covered countryside. Sled mushers Arne and Marianne welcome all to join the fun www.parkengaard-husky.no
Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel, Alta: Each year a hotel is created out of ice and snow and is decorated with ice carvings www.sorrisniva.no
The Rauma Railway, Andalsnes: My visit was spoiled by cloud, but the valley is spectacular and the train always runs – there’s no such thing as the wrong type of snow here www.nsb.no/Rauma-Railway
Sami village, Alta: The Sami have inhabited this land for thousands of years and their proud descendants are eager to share their history and stories. It’s worth a visit just for the yoiking – a traditional form of song.