A family wedding drew us to Malta for a holiday. My cousin and his bride-to-be had fallen in love with the small island, deciding it was the perfect place for their nuptials.

And they weren’t the only ones – it soon became clear from its history that various groups from ancient knights to the French and later the British loved this place so much they took control of it.

Situated in the Mediterranean Sea, Malta is close to the coast of Sicily and about 300km from Africa, which has always made it strategically important for trade – and vitally important during the Second World War.

Its capital, Valletta, is the best spot to get a sense of how old traditions and new ways of doing things are blending together.

Founded in 1565 by the Order of St John as a refuge for soldiers returning from Crusades, its star piece is the Cathedral of St John featuring carved stone walls.

But you don’t really need a guidebook to appreciate how historic it is. Just taking a detour off the main shopping area and on to little tiny side streets will do the job. The architecture is baroque, and overhanging balconies all built to the same template overlook the streets below.

It also seems every little road leads straight to the sea or to stunning views of the Grand Harbour – and the title isn’t an overstatement.

Now favoured by cruise ships, the deep-water harbour also proved very attractive during the Second World War as Malta, then under British rule, found itself as a base to launch attacks on the Italian navy. The Italians, joined by the German air forces, retaliated with constant bombardment.

Two things, for me, stand out as testament to how devastating the war was. One is a large war memorial created not in a corner of a church, but at the entrance to the harbour – right in the line of sight for those visiting the capital by sea for the first time.

And then, on a wall in the main street, a framed letter from Buckingham Palace is mounted. It is a few lines and awards the George Cross to the island of Malta for bravery during the conflict. You just stumble across it and it stops you in your tracks.

At night, bars and coffee culture pop up, but don’t dominate. This is still a place that for the most part shuts down at around 1am, and peace reigns. Bus travel around the island is very cheap (think around £5 for a weekly pass) and consequently very overcrowded.

But if you want traditional Malta and a sense of the old way of life, take the bus to Marsaxlokk for a little stroll. It is a village where the customs of fishing govern what fish you will eat in the restaurants and what is sold at the weekly market.

For modern, Sliema is the place to be, with gleaming new shopping malls, high-rise flats and a buzzing nightlife going into the early hours.

After sampling a night out here (the bride and groom had to be toasted of course), no doubt the Order of St John would be spinning in their graves.

Need to know:

Several flight operators run routes from London Gatwick to Malta. Chief among them are Air Malta and EasyJet.

Accommodation: Choose between modern resort-like hotels concentrated around St Julian’s. But there are plenty of websites offering villa options – from traditional white-washed cottages to luxury choices.

Must see: An hour-long boat ride around Valletta and the little villages nearby is a good way to get your bearings.

Don’t bother: Expecting many beaches for sunbathing – Malta is predominantly rocky. You can still get into the sea, but you might have to be prepared to launch yourself off a rocky outpost.