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Swap the Med for delightful six-nights of river and canal cruising

Smaller ships rarely grab the big headlines. There’s no outside movie screen, climbing wall or robot barmen.

But then the Oasis of the Seas and the like will not be found where we’ve just been.

Our Tulips and Chocolates cruise aboard the Braemar left Dover Western Docks and took in three countries in six nights, visiting some stunning European destinations at one of the prettiest times of the year.

The Grampian restuarant on board The Braemar with Fred Olsen Cruise
The Grampian restuarant on board The Braemar with Fred Olsen Cruise

Sailing to the Netherlands first, we passed through the complex locks of the North Sea Canal before stopping overnight in Amsterdam; two days in beautiful Belgium followed with Braemar gliding along the Western Scheldt River on route to an overnight stay in Antwerp. Finally, we visited the picturesque French town of Honfleur before returning overnight to Dover.

Braemar is the smallest of the company’s four ships, the fleet catering almost exclusively for British passengers. Balmoral, Black Watch and Boudicca are not much larger and it is clearly the size of these ships that attracts people back time after time.

Setting off from Dover, all 900 passengers were boarded within two hours and it was equally efficient at the journey’s end, when everyone just wants to get home with as little hassle as possible.

Smaller ships also mean you don’t have to walk miles along endless corridors or wait ages for a lift to arrive.

The Fred. Olsen cruise ship Braemar docked at Antwerp
The Fred. Olsen cruise ship Braemar docked at Antwerp

Fed.Olsen is well-known for putting together imaginative schedules and this was no exception.

We docked in the heart of Amsterdam - a six minute walk from Dam Square - and the overnight stay enabled passsengers to make the most of this fantastic city. There were nine tours on offer, ranging from the basic city and canals to the more quirky, a 6am start to experience the Aalsmeer Flower Auction where flowers arrive from all over the world and are traded to the highest bidder. Around 20 million flowers are sold daily, although this increases by around 15 percent on special days such as Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day

We chose by far the most popular tour, a four-hour visit to the world-famous Keukenhof flower festival which between mid-March and May has more than seven million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths bombarding your senses with colour and fragrance. Forget Amsterdam’s brown cafes with their mind-blowing offering of coffee and cannabis. After a couple of hours taking in these heady perfumes visitors are “high” enough.

The world-famous Keukenhof flower festival has more than seven million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths on show between March and May
The world-famous Keukenhof flower festival has more than seven million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths on show between March and May

Antwerp was equally spectacular, with Braemar pulling up right beside the road, which when crossed led into the old town with its shops, bars and restaurants and the Cathedral of Our Lady with a 123-metre high tower whichh can be viewed from anywhere in the city. Excursions from Antwerp included the Battlefields of Waterloo; tours round the city and trips to Ghent and its chocolate factories.

The programme offered the best of sea, river and canal cruising. We pulled into Antwerp in the mixed light of early morning but the daytime return showed the Western Scheldt River at its best. A vital transportation link between Belgium and the Netherlands, it also contains the Verdronken Land Saeftinghe Nature Reserve.

What a treat the Braemar is. The interior decor is warm and inviting and it’s spotlessly clean with panoramic views from large windows on every deck. There’s also ample space on each deck and plenty of comfortable seating available at any time of the day. Judging by the number of people we spoke to Fred Olsen succeeds in attracting guests of a similar age and mindset.

Having sailed with five other companies, the food is without doubt the best we have been served. Freshly cooked breakfasts imaginative lunches and five course dinners. Cooking for hundreds of people rather than thousands meant the food always reached the table still hot. Simply fine dining at its best.

The world-famous Keukenhof flower festival has more than seven million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths on show between March and May
The world-famous Keukenhof flower festival has more than seven million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths on show between March and May

The Coral Club was the venue for daytime activities and by night it offered music and dancing with occasional late-night cabaret.

The Bookmark Cafe was a one-stop chocolate and coffee shop, while the Morning Light Pub was the place for drinks and regular live music.My favourite haunt however was the Observatory, high up at the front of the ship and a haven of peace and tranquility, the perfect place for pre-dinner cocktails and late-evening drinks.

I’m not a great one for the F-word, but this was a friendly ship with friendly staff ...all geared up towards providing a family atmosphere for a fabulous holiday.

Factfile

Next year’s Tulips and Chocolates cruise (D1703) will be for five nights aboard Boudicca, departing from Southampton on March 26. Prices currently start from £499 per person, based on an interior twin-bedded room.
The itinerary includes cruising the Western Scheldt River, an overnight stay in Antwerp, cruising the North Sea Canal and calling at Amsterdam, before arriving back in Southampton on March 31.
There is also an eight-night Cities and Waterways of Europe cruise (L1706) departing from Dover on April 22, 2017. Prices currently start from £799 per person, based on an interior twin-bedded room.
The itinerary includes an overnight stay in Hamburg, cruising the Elbe River and North Sea Canal, and overnight stays in Amsterdam and Antwerp, before arriving back in Dover on April 30.

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