On a busy bridge across the river Rhine are thousands upon thousands of padlocks.

Some adorning the wire grille separating the rail tracks from pedestrians are rusting and weather-beaten, while others look more like fashion accessories. The keys lie on the river bed below.

But what they all have in common is an ideal.

to a city packed with commerce, culture and heritage.CologneThe Lovers' Bridge- or, as a disapproving German Rail knows it, the Hohenzollern Brucke railway bridge - links the eastern side of

It has been adorned with padlocks since 2008, when lovers first etched their names on a lock, clasped it to the bridge, and threw its key into the Rhine as a symbol of their everlasting union.

Their passion, and that of the thousands of lovers to have since added their own symbol, is something which radiates through a city in love with itself.

But not in a bad way. It's not arrogance that draws thousands of people to a cathedral which rises, like a father figure, over Germany's fourth largest city.

And it's not self-importance which floods the streets with millions for Cologne's annual carnival processions. It's a pride as great as the cathedral's 157m towers are tall.

Perhaps this isn't surprising in a city almost wiped off the map by Allied bombing in the Second World War.

However, it's too crude an analysis to see the Rhineland's biggest city as being dominated by a dark past of destruction and Nazi ignominy.

It has a history spanning more than 2,000 years. From the Farina Haus Fragrance Museum, the birthplace of the original Eau de Cologne, to the vast underground remains of the Praetorium, a Roman governor's palace, the city has layer upon layer of heritage.

But somehow, you feel you really have to be a Cologner to be a part of the love affair and, for me at least, cupid's arrow missed its target. To take the motto of the city's tourist board, if "Cologne is a feeling", I just didn't feel it.

, from which charm oozes as readily as the local Kolsch beer flows.CologneThere is, however, one impressive pocket of

, within touching distance of the mighty cathedral and walking distance of most of the city's key attractions, is grandeur and sophistication without pomposity.Excelsior Hotel Ernst

The five-star hotel, which has an awards list as long as your arm, is a blend of classical, cultivated living with modern comfort.

So it's no surprise it is often surrounded by paparazzi straining to catch a glimpse of a celebrity guest staying at the hotel either side of a gig at the nearby Lanxess Arena.

Exceptional comfort and service are a given - what better after a hard day's sightseeing than to return to your room to find a bottle of beer chilling in an ice bucket alongside a dainty plate of pre-dinner treats?

And the experience at either of the hotel's two restaurants, the gourmet French Hanse Stube or the taste of Asia in Taku, is of the finest dining.

reservation@excelsior-hotel-ernst.de or email www.excelsiorhotelernst.com/enRooms at the Excelsior Hotel Ernst range from 200 euros for a single room to 520 euros for a suite. Rates include use of minibar, sauna and fitness facilities, service charge and VAT. Breakfast is not included. To book visit

or call 0906 2941918.www.germanwings.comFlights to Cologne from London Stansted with German Wings start at £13.99. To book visit

www.koelntourismus.de/enCologne’s Street Carnival takes place from February 11-16 this year. Its seven major Christmas markets are open from November 22 to December 23. For full details of events and attractions in Cologne visit