by Norman Smith

Like many Brits, author John Ruler loves France, but not for him the Autoroute du Soleil and charms of the Med. His love affair is conducted much closer to home, in the Nord-Pas de Calais region, a diverse area full of delights and surprises, magnificent towns and villages, superb beaches and rich countryside.

Too many holidaymakers will be unaware of what they are missing as they speed south.

Such is John's passion that he has written a book called Cross-Channel France. Sub-titled Nord-Pas de Calais: The Land Beyond the Ports, the book is produced by Bradt Travel Guides and is claimed to be the first English guide to the region.

It is a fascinating, detailed look at a part of France that has so much to offer, justifying the tourist people's description: Real France, Real Close. I have enjoyed several visits to different parts of this area, but looking at John's work of exploration I seem to have barely scratched the surface. And his passion and enthusiasm were evident when I was invited to join him and a few others for a glimpse of what he has uncovered.

The route to discovery is not the motorway, says John, and, after crossing to Calais in P&O Ferries' new vessel, The Spirit of Britain, we headed down the D940 coast road in the direction of Boulogne. This is a meandering, hilly route taking in pleasant countryside and the two promintories of Cap Blanc Nez and Cap Gris Nez, from where you can get great views. The weather can be fickle, however, and, this time we were deprived by torrential rain.

Sights of history on the coastal route include the Sangatte entrance to the former Channel Tunnel project that was abandoned in 1882 and, further down the coast, the fishing village of Ambleteuse, which has been frequently fortified since Roman times, most recently by the Germans in the Second World War. The Historical Museum of that war is nearby and, in tranquil contrast, the estuary nature reserve.

It would have been good to look around but, again, we were frustrated by the weather and there seemed to be little choice but to take in a beer or two at the Hotel Atlantic in the pretty seaside town of Wimereux.

The hotel, with its fine restaurant and rooms overlooking the beach, is popular with British visitors. It's a great place for families and on a previous visit I had my first, disastrous attempt at sand yachting on this superb stretch of coast.

It was here that we met one of the Pas-de-Calais Greeters, unpaid volunteers who can show visitors around and pass on local knowledge. Greeters now operate all over the world and the service is free. You can go to http://www.greeters62.com/ or http://www.globalgreeternetwork.info/ to find out more.

In his book John enthuses about St Omer and the magnificent Audomarois marshes with their waterways and agricultural plots that provide produce for local markets. It's a beautiful area, and one of my favourites too. The marshlands, which you can explore by boat, are rich in wildlife and rural curiosities, attracting about 100,000 visitors a year.

We headed for St Omer and then on to the historic town of Cassel, a true high point from where you can see for miles across Flanders - and the rain had stopped. The Flanders Museum is here, in a place that combines charm with the quaint and we were lucky enough to catch a typical piece of French ceremonial pomp in a parade of firemen, veterans and a local band - reassuringly timeless.

History provided accommodation for the night - the Chatellerie de Schoebeque (http://www.schoebeque.com/), which was converted from an 18thcentury chateau and has its reputation enhanced by the fact that the First World War leader, Marshal Foch, stayed there. It's a comfortable, well-appointed place run by pleasant people eager to please, and breakfast - no buffet here - is a treat.

Before that, however, Flemish fare and assorted beers had to be sampled at the Kasteelhof, a traditional estaminet, which is the Flanders equivalent of a down-to-earth pub-restaurant, with an ambience that John aptly describes as rustic charm. The jovial staff reflect that and it's a busy spot. Healthy appetites required.

Spectacular parks and gardens are strewn across Nord-Pas de Calais and the award-winning Le Jardin de la ferme du mont des Recollets in the outskirts of Cassel , is something special. Topiary and careful cultivation influenced by Flemish artists provide a wonderful display nurtured by the owner, Emmanuel de Quillacq, who clearly loves what he is doing. The farmhouse, which he restored to the glory of its past from rubble, is a dream. Just the sort of place my wife and I have been looking for in rural France for years! Tickets for the garden can be bought at the estaminet.

Wrenched away and time to meet another English-speaking Greeter for a drive to the old town of Bergues, which had its tourist attractions greatly boosted by featuring in the French comedy film Bienvenue Chez les Ch'tis (Welcome to the Sticks). The movie was a huge hit and visitor numbers soared after its release.

It's an interesting place and you can get a bird's eye view of much of the town from the famous belfry. The climb is a test of stamina - better not to ask how many steps - but it's worth the effort and if you get the time right you might get the chance of seeing the bells being played - a marvellous one-man performance.

Then came a first for John. Having worked up an appetite, we headed for the Bienvenue Chez Nous (Welcome to our house), a fairly new restaurant that he had not been to before. I expect that he will be back and guiding others there because it's good, with fine food and pleasant staff. It's run by Jean-Pierre Debailleul, who used to be a buyer for Auchan, the hypermarket chain. He will be happy to come to your table for a chat. He will also sell you bits and pieces and has four rooms available for B&B.

Time caught up with us and it was back to Calais, then the comfort of P&O's Club Lounge for the crossing to Dover. A lot was crammed into a short period, but if you want to fully explore the Land Beyond the Ports you will need much more time and many more journeys.

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FACTFILE

The trip was organised by Bradt Travel Guides (http://www.bradtguides.com/); the Nord tourist board (http://www.tourisme-nord.fr/); Pas-de-Calais Tourism (http://www.pas-de-calais.com/); and P&O Ferries (http://www.poferries.com/).

We travelled to Calais on P&O Ferries' new ship, the Spirit of Britain and had lunch in the excellent Brasserie. The vessel is the largest passenger ferry operating on the Channel and will be joined by another, the Spirit of France, in September. Details of fares can be found on the web site. Passengers can upgrade to priority boarding and Club Lounge by paying a supplement.

John Ruler, writer and photographer, is a life member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. His book, Cross Channel France, price £13.99, is available at good book shops or through the Bradt website.