by Norman Smith

After the First World War, in order to stave off future invasion, France built a formidable line of defences along the border with Germany.

But in May 1940, the inconsiderate Germans stormed through Belgium and simply went round the top of the Maginot Line, cutting a swathe through the French forces and precipitating the Allied retreat to Dunkirk.

They didn't even bother tackling the Maginot line from the rear since most of its armaments were pointing in the other direction. Only the end fortification at Villy-La-Ferte, near the town of Sedan, had been attacked and all its defenders died in the underground chambers.

Much of the fort, with only its gun turrets above ground, is intact and you can climb down to get a glimpse of what it must have been like in the operations chambers and living quarters of the submarine-like innards of its defences.

The whole area around Sedan and, indeed, much of Champagne-Ardenne, has been marked by invasion and conflict over hundreds of years. It's a vast area steeped in history and culture and while you can reflect on relics of war, you can also savour flavours of peace and tranquillity. After all, this is the land of world-famous wine, gastronomy - and scenic splendour.

The region consists of four departments: Ardennes, Marne, Aube and Haute-Marne, each with its own appeal, rich heritage and natural beauty. There is so much to see and explore in Champagne-Ardenne that one visit is not enough, something easily remedied by the fact it is only a three-hour drive from Calais.

Having been fought over in 1940, the Ardennes saw more conflict with the Germans in 1944, but that was the beginning of the end and Germany's unconditional surrender was signed in May 1945, in a former school in the beautiful city of Reims, where General Eisenhower had set up Allied headquarters. In what is now a museum, the room where the signing took place has been carefully preserved and the memorabilia includes film of the actual ceremony. It's an absorbing piece of history, as is the magnificent cathedral, which when illuminated at night is awe-inspiring.

There's so much to see (www.reims-tourisme.com) that you will need refreshment. Sample some of the finest champagne and explore the cellars at Champagne Taittinger, just one of the many renowned producers (www.taittinger.com).

Almost alongside the cathedral, le Cafe du Palais is a virtual work of Art Deco and the food is pretty good too. Try the traditionally cooked ham, perhaps washed down by a glass or two from a wide range of bubbly. It's bistro-style cuisine, as can also be found in the city's excellent Brasserie Flo.

Like the range of eateries, there is no shortage of places to stay in Reims and we opted for the Hotel de La Paix, a modern Best Western with all the amenities and comforts you would expect from an international establishment (www.bestwestern-lapaix-reims.com).

It was a contrast in style from our previous night's stay in the hotel at the Chateau Fort of Sedan, a three star hotel seemingly built into the largest medieval fort in Europe (www.hotelfp-sedan.com).

One of the highlights in Champagne-Ardenne must be a visit to the pretty village of Colombey-les-Deux-Eglise in the countryside of Haute-Marne. It was here, in a house called La Boisserie, that Charles de Gaulle and his family found tranquillity and escape from state affairs. It was also where he died and is buried and where a fascinating memorial museum has been established near a massive Cross of Lorraine.

The village also has a Michelin-star restaurant, Hostellerie La Montagne and you could spend hours there too. Just relax and enjoy the culinary artistry (www.hostellerielamontagne.com).

We spent the night and enjoyed generous helpings of traditional fare not far away at La Grange du Relais (www.lagrangedurelais.fr). It has rural comfort and charm, with a warm welcome.

As to be expected in this part of France, there are Champagne tourist routes to explore, about 300 miles of them in the Aube and Marne.

Some growers and producers, such as the family-run Champagne Drappier, offer their own tours and tasting visits, but it is advisable to check in advance.