by Norman Smith

The Maginot Line was a defensive disaster in the Second World War, but Germany's Atlantic Wall proved to be even more spectacular.

Belgium was key to both and now has the only substantial surviving section of the Atlantic Wall.

Part of a line of defensive positions that stretched from Norway to Spain, this group of military structures is now a museum in the outskirts of Ostend. A major tourist attraction, it is carefully preserved and unobtrusively enhanced to give a glimpse of a German project that nosedived.

Designed to fend off invasion via the shortest route from England, it was rendered almost useless when the Allies landed in Normandy and fought their way through behind it.

A fascinating spot and just one of several in a 50-hectare area called Domain Raversyde, which includes a restored medieval fishing village, an extensive park and a memorial to another Prince Charles. He was Belgium's regent from 1944 to 1950, and stayed here in a cottage that is open to visitors.

Royalty have played a significant part in Ostend's development as a seaside resort with class. Their influence can be seen all over a city that combines rich heritage with modern living, including a rather swanky casino. You won't find any 'Kiss-Me-Quick' hats here.

Those seeking retail therapy would be at home in the City by the Sea. Spotless, open streets offer everything from major department stores to cool boutiques and shops selling local produce including, of course, the famous Belgian beers and chocolates.

Not having been to Ostend before, I was captivated, not least by a beautiful sandy beach that stretches for more than five miles, bordered by broad promenades dotted with cafes and bistros. This is the sort of place you might expect on the Med, not the North Sea. And you can get to it from Ramsgate!

A walk along the quays will bring you to the Mercator, a former sail training ship that still takes to sea for special events; the Iceland fishing vessel Amandine, now an interactive museum; and the bustling fish market, where it's easy to see why seafood features so prominently on local menus.

Nowhere is far from the city's wealth of attractions. But what to see next - the North Sea Aquarium, the Japanese Garden, the magnificent Floral Clock, Saint Peter and Paul's Church, the Earth Exporer scientific theme park? The tourism people (Toerisme Oostende vzw) will help here, with loads of information.

An Ostende City Pass, costing from 12 euros, provides discounted access to various attractions. You can also get digital kit to guide you through a city walk with the late Baron James Ensor, an artist, musician and one of Ostend's favourite sons, as the 'guide'.

Another military defensive position that wasn't needed is the now restored Fort Napoleon, overlooking the port of Ostend. Napoleon could have saved the effort because the British invasion never came and the structure now serves a better purpose as an excellent museum and cultural centre. It also has a fine restaurant, as my friends and I discovered. Fresh seafood, of course, and it was superb.

On the subject of food, the aforementioned James Ensor (1860-1949) is now making his presence felt in the city's kitchens. For the past few years Ostend has featured Dinner with Art, celebrating various artists through special meals at selected restaurants, and from now until April 3 next year it's Dinner with Ensor.

Gourmet establishments, various other restaurants and bistros are taking part. With the four-course gastronomic meals you get a souvenir of a cotton napkin and silver-plated napkin ring bearing a copy of Ensor's signature. The napkin has an image of one of the eight engravings of the artist's 'The Deadly Sins', and if you have the appetite and the budget, you can collect them all. We relished the generous offerings at De Bistronoom, where our host tempted us with an enormous selection of beers.

We also sampled a three-course Ensor menu at the delightful Toi, Moi et la Mer. The souvenir here was a napkin featuring detail from 'The Baths at Ostend'. Drinks are not included in the prices of the meals, which can be booked through the restaurants or through Toerisme Oostende vzw.

Ensor's work has been described in some quarters as varying between the bizarre and the scandalous, banned by the pompous at one stage. Parts of it depict disturbing images and grotesque masks, perhaps inspired by his parents' curiosity shop. However, he is a revered figure and his house, inherited from his uncle, is now another museum.

Don't be bored by that thought. Go and see it - it's a place that gives some insight to a man whose love of Ostend is everywhere.

His affection is understable. This place fascinates me. A rival for Le Touquet? Certainly in the hearts of some.

Here, Halloween, with magic everywhere, goes on until the beginning of November. And just see what happens for Christmas!

The city's night life is jumping - Marvyn Gaye chilled out here - and the bars, well...I have never seen bigger measures of brandy.

We stayed at the Sandton Mondo Hotel (www.sandton.eu/nl/oostende) where a standard room and breakfast for two people costs from 69 euros on a weekday in low season to 109 euros on Fridays and Saturdays in high season. There are more than 40 hotels to choose from, ranging from four-star to establishments with basic amenities. Again, the tourism team can point you in the right direction, and they can also arrange short break package deals.

From now until April 3, 2011, if you book a three-night stay, arriving on Sunday, Monday or Tuesday you get the third night free.

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Factfile

LD Lines/Transeuropa Ferries operate the exclusive ferry service between Ramsgate and Ostend - the only cross-Channel passenger ferry link between Kent and Belgium. There are four return sailings daily, with a crossing time of four hours.

Short break fares start from £78 return for a car and two passnegers, and Autumn Break fares from £59 single for a car and up to nine passengers.

For more information and to book visit http://www.ldlines.com/ or call 0844 576 8836.

For more information about visiting Ostend, contact Tourism Flanders-Brussels at http://www.visitflanders.co.uk/ or phone 0207 307 7738 (live operator line from Monday to Friday).