More on KentOnline
More on KentOnline
by Sandra Hembery
Sssssh. There's a little secret I want to share, but you've got
to promise to tell no-one.
It involves an area of great beauty, fantastic architecture, the
most amazing food and wine and a history dating back to Roman
times.
What's more, it's a mere hop, skip and jump from Stansted
Airport - and it's in one of the most beautiful countries in the
world...Italy.
Yes, I know, you're thinking Rome, Florence, Milan. Right?
No, Brescia and Bergamo are in the Lombardy area of Italy and,
while not as well known as their brasher neighbour Milan, they have
a host of treasures to unravel.
Bergamo offers the best of all worlds - a strong cultural
tradition with outstanding natural scenery.
Built on two levels, it boasts a lower (modern and dynamic) and
upper (historic and beautiful) town. From the upper town,
accessed by a funicular railway, the views are breathtaking across
the mountains.
From this area you can use more than 100 ski lifts
reaching more than 300kms of ski tracks along the Pre-Alps. In
summer the mountains are beautiful landscapes in the heart of
Lombardy; in the winter you can explore the charming valleys, with
rivers and mountain streams.
In Bergamo itself Piazza Vecchia is a breathtaking sight. Dating
back to 1440, it is itself a walk through centuries of history. It
features as its centrepiece the beautiful Contarini Fountain, built
in the 18th Century at the behest of the then Venetian
governor.
Palazzo della Ragione in the square is decorated with a St
Mark's lion, referring to the area's dominance by the
Venetians. But next door is a civic tower so much older - dating
back to the 12th Century.
It strikes 100 times each night at 10pm to signal the ancient
call to close the city gates.
But this city is awash with little gems that deserve more
prominence on the world map.
Take the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore and the Cappella
Colleoni: the basilica is the town's grandest religious building,
built between the 12th and 16th centuries, and is a treasure trove
of precious works of art. The Capella contains the tombs of a
famous soldier of fortune, Bartolomeo Colleoni and his daughter,
and some amazing 18th Century frescoes.
Other treasures include the Donizetti museum, dedicated to the
great opera composer from the town, and the beautiful citadel and
botanic garden.
But if all this foot-slogging and culture take a strain on the
brain, why not rest the grey matter with a stroll through the
beautiful cobbled streets, browsing through the fantastic artisan
and food shops, before you leisurely arrive for lunch?
One favoured for its fantastic local cuisine is Ol Giopi e la Margi in the Via Borgo Palazzo.
It boasts the most amazing local wines, cheeses such as Grana
Padano, which hail from the area but are known throughout the
world, and fantastic charcuterie. In fact, beware, you may find
yourself dining like an Italian - leaving the restaurant several
hours later and several pounds added!
A trip to Almenno is definitely recommended to burn off the
calories - with the shrine of Madonna del Castello comprising three
churches belonging to three different periods. The nearby Pieve di
San Salvatore is one of the oldest and best-preserved churches in
the Bergamo area.
After a hectic day we rested our weary bones at the Mercure Hotel, a modern, four-star hotel boasting all the comforts and close to the heart of Bergamo.
On a rain-soaked second day what better to do than squirrel
yourself away with a lazy tour of a vineyard?
The Azienda Agricola Tenuta degli Angeli is a typical family-owned vineyard of the Lombardy region. Producing around 12,000 bottles of wine each year, its white Valepio sparkling wine is the star of this winery that leaves Champagne, with its high price tags and pretentiousness, a little flat.
But it's when you tour all of the flavours of this little
mountain-top hideaway - open to parties with prior booking - that
you understand more of the culture and flavours of the area.
The family not only makes wine, but the most amazing balsamic
vinegar that can be aged as much as 35 years (producing a
treacly, rich syrup so sweet it's served with ice cream), and some
fantastic olive oil.
Well, drop me in heaven and call in the harpist! It all makes
for the most fantastic, simple lunch of home-grown fare: combined
with amazing Grana Padano cheese, it makes for a winning
combination.
But the great secret of this marvellous, eye-opening area is
it's Italy in one small gulp: not only do you have the mountains,
the history and the culture, the Italian lakes are on your
doorstep.
Iseo may not be the most obvious stop-off on the grand tour of
Garda, but it is unspoilt, beautiful and boasts the mysterious
island of Montisola at its centre.
No cars are allowed on this island, and it hints at a life far
gone. Iseo is surrounded by mountain slopes and spectacular views,
but you can also enjoy the usual delights of stopping at local
cafes for a cappuccino, browsing around the many shops or even
enjoying a glass of the local vino Franciacorta.
But when in Rome (or Brescia) eating has to be a
lavish affair. Be prepared to indulge in the local casseroles,
pastas and meat dishes.
For an authentic night out try the Osteria Al Bianchi, where eating on the hoof takes on a whole new meaning...for as well as the local entertainment and fine food the menu includes not only horse, but donkey!
A stay at the Albergo Orologio is highly recommended. Just a few minutes' walk from Brescia's key sightseeing spots, it is authentic, beautifully decorated and comfortable.
Brescia itself is a beautiful city that can easily rival its
more flashy and well-known neighbours.
Its three piazzas screech typical, beautiful Italian
architecture: you can find stunning domes, red-tiled roofs and more
columns than you can shake a stick at!
The New Cathedral dominates the Piazza Paulo VI, boasting the
third highest dome in Italy, and built around the 17th Century. It
nuzzles next to the old cathedral, which dates back to the 11th
century and boasts Romanesque architecture.
Also packed into this one square is the Medieval Broletto
Palace.
But no tour of Brescia should miss out on the unique Roman
history. As home to the largest Roman archaeological site in
northern Italy, it is an area where you can literally walk in the
footsteps of our ancestors.
To see more of the ancient artefacts, pop along to the Santa Giulia Museum. Set in a monastery, it is an expansive spectacle of 14,000m2 containing not only room after room of preserved Roman homes, but also churches within its very walls.
Be warned, this museum is so vast, it could take up hours, so you'll need refuelling. A suggestion would be the Il Fantanone restaurant in the Via Dei Musei.
It is a charming stopping point, offering a wonderful warm
welcome, and more of that wonderful local food you will have come
to love.
End your stay in Brescia with an afternoon stroll to the Brescia
Castle, where you can see a panoramic view across the entire
city.
In the evening, you may wish to visit the Teatro Grande in the heart of the city.
With its 17th Century facade and fantastic, breathtaking
auditorium, it is a treat in itself just to walk around and witness
the splendour, let alone take in a play.
But with a cultural overload, a full belly and a night at the
theatre to look back on, it's time for home. No wonder the tourist
board describe this area as all of Italy in one city...
Just don't tell anyone else. OK?
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