The launch of a new steam train tour of Kent this summer gives rail enthusiasts the opportunity to step back in time and travel through the beautiful Garden of England in style.

We packed our man Rhys Griffiths off to Victoria to join the lunchtime trip and experience first-hand the joys of vintage rail travel...

Given the parlous state of the nation’s railways – afflicted as they are by industrial unrest, soaring ticket prices and frequent cancellations and delays – it would be easy to begin to fall out of love with train travel. But to my mind there is simply no better way to go.

Having taken the sleeper down the west coast of America, traversed Europe on trains slow and fast, and endured a spell of five-days-a-week commuting from Kent to the capital, my love of rail travel remains undimmed. So when the opportunity to tour the county on a steam-hauled service presented itself, I jumped at the chance.

Joining the newly-launched The Steam Dreams Rail Co. Garden of England Lunchtime Tour at London Victoria, I fell into a plush seat on one of the service’s elegant Pullman-style dining cars and settled in for what would prove to be a delightful day recapturing the bygone age of steam.

Departing right on time at 10.02am, it’s not long before we are steaming our way through south London, with onlookers at bus stops on the streets of Brixton below gazing up at the somewhat incongruous sight of a steam locomotive chugging its way towards the suburbs and countryside beyond.

As our engine, the West Country class Braunton, picks up pace we are welcomed on board by a wonderful team of young and enthusiastic attendants who will be working our carriage on the five-hour loop around Kent. Things get off to a classy start with glasses of Champagne all round, which we enjoy as we peruse the menu detailing the three-course lunch we will be served, at a leisurely pace, during the journey.

Our carriage is laid out in a two-by-one seating plan, one side of the aisle are tables for four, and across the way more intimate seating for two at a table.

It is a warm summer’s day, so arms are soon reaching to crack open the windows above each table – no such luxury as air-conditioning on this vintage rolling stock – and the cooler air flows in, bringing with it the evocative aroma of the steam pouring from the engine toiling away up front.

Before long the crew pass through, delivering tasty canapes to each table, a welcome morsel to accompany the first drinks of the day. In these Pullman-style cars each table is set with proper cutlery, china and glassware which rattles with each jolt of the train, and crisp white linen. It’s a true throwback to a time when travel by train did not feel like an endless cost-cutting exercise on behalf of the railway companies.

Green fields and line-side trees whizz by our window in a blur as the first dish of the day – poached trout and freshwater crayfish tails – is served. The food is exquisite, all the more impressive for being prepared in the onboard kitchen we had glanced inside as we walked down the platform before boarding in London.

The mood in our carriage is most agreeable as people tuck in, the sound of crockery and cutlery clinking filling the air over the background chug of the steam engine. Looking out across the Medway as we steam over the bridge into Rochester, the castle looming over to the right of the train, a wave of contentment passes over us. What a relaxing way to travel, especially with nowhere in particular to be and no nagging worries about making an onward connection.

From Medway the train passes through orchards and gently rolling hills as we head towards Canterbury, where at the East station we stop for a short while for the engine to take on water, giving passengers a chance to stretch their legs and take a breath of fresh air.

Walking along the platform, there’s a chance to spy through the windows of the other carriages, where passengers in first and standard are enjoying tea and sandwiches. Climbing back aboard, I overhear a couple of people remarking with envy at the plush surroundings of our Pullman-style accommodation. It reminds me of the feeling when heading through the posh seats towards cattle-class on a long-haul flight. As a man who flies economy, it’s nice to feel that – even if just this once – today I am lucky enough to be enjoying the very best on offer.

From Canterbury we steam on towards Dover, savouring a delightful dish of lamb rump and braised shoulder as we progress towards the sea. After leaving Dover Priory we realise our luck at being seated on the left-hand side of the train, giving us the glorious view of the English Channel as we follow the line at the foot of the White Cliffs.

At this point it feels like we are well and truly on the return leg of the journey, passing through Folkestone, Ashford and Tonbridge on our way back to the capital. Dessert, coffee and petit fours are served by our ever-cheerful crew, and the atmosphere is as soporific as the heat of the day and full stomachs combine to induce a contented drowsiness.

Pulling into Victoria shortly after 3pm, it’s fair to say it’s been a magnificent experience. With seats in our carriage starting at £195 per person, it’s not the cheapest day out.

But if you are looking to celebrate a special occasion, or simply want to enjoy a magnificent lunch while touring the Garden of England, I can’t recommend it highly enough. Britain’s railways may feel like they are creaking under the strain of too much penny-pinching and not enough love, but thanks to Steam Dreams it is still possible to be reminded why train travel remains – in my eyes at least – unsurpassed.

Rhys Griffiths travelled as a guest of Steam Dreams Rail Co. Its Garden of England Lunchtime Tour runs from London Victoria on selected dates through July and August. For more information visit steamdreams.co.uk.