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The trail of one city

Rochester
Rochester

Rochester is home to an ancient cathedral, a castle with a famous ghost and lots more. Mara Podaru put on her walking shoes and had a nose around the cobbled streets.

"We love dressing up in Rochester,” the tour guide says as we walk down the street. And sure enough, minutes later we pass a couple dressed in Victorian outfits, about to take a school group on the Charles Dickens tour of the town.

So proud is Rochester of its association with Dickens that it dedicates two festivals a year to the novelist. But the guided walking tour, organised by the City of Rochester Society, shows there is much more to the historic city on the banks of the River Medway than Dickens.

A walk down the pretty, cobbled High Street will take you past the Six Poor Travellers House, set up to provide free lodging and meals for one night for poor travellers. Between its creation in 1578 and closure in 1940, more than 700,000 travellers stayed there. Step into their shoes and take a look around the rooms, which are open to the public, to see life through the eyes of a 16th century traveller. The house also has a Victorian herb garden and an exhibition room to explore.

My tour then heads past the ancient wall that used to surround Rochester, a part of which still stands today by the High Street. Further down the road is Eastgate House, which Dickens fans will recognise from his books. It houses the Swiss chalet, where he used to write during the summer, and holds a variety of exhibitions throughout the year.

Rochester
Rochester

Next up we climb the worn, uneven steps to the top of Rochester Castle for breathtaking views of the River Medway estuary and the North Downs. The Norman castle is one of the best preserved in the country and has a long history of destruction and rebuilding. The south east tower was destroyed in 1215 and, as a result, the keep has one circular tower and three square ones. Although the floors and roof are missing, it is possible to walk along the battlements. For those wishing to keep their feet on the ground, audio tours are also available.

Since any self-respecting castle has ghosts, keep an eye out for Lady Blanche de Warren, who was accidentally killed by her husband and is said to roam the grounds. Our guide also lets on that the ghost of Charles Dickens, who, according to legend, wanted to be buried under the castle, now likes to wander around its moat from time to time.

The castle also offers excellent views of the country’s second-oldest cathedral, whose present building dates back to 1080. A mix of Norman, Romanesque and Gothic architecture, Rochester Cathedral is also home to one of the oldest doors in England, which can be viewed by special appointment.

A short walk away are the Vines, an old monastic vineyard that is now a park, and Restoration House. This imposing redbrick building takes its name from King Charles II’s stay there the night before the Restoration and is also the Satis House from Dickens’ Great Expectations. Built in the late 16th century, the house is renowned for its beautiful interiors and spacious gardens. Open from late May to September, it is well worth a visit.

Visit the Guildhall Museum to learn more about Rochester’s history or simply admire the 17th century building, then stroll along the river and find out about the ancient bridge that existed there, built by the Romans as part of Watling Street, the paved road that stretched 276 miles across the country from Dover to Shropshire. Also on the High Street, Two Post Alley, a tiny passageway bordered on one side by a leaning house, takes the visitor back to medieval Rochester.

The guided walking tours of Rochester begin at the Visitor Information Centre in the High Street.

They run every Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday, public holiday and festival days until the end of September, starting at 2.15pm and lasting around 90 minutes.

The tour is free but donations to the City of Rochester Society are welcome. To celebrate the 200th anniversary of Charles Dickens’ birth, Footsteps in Time is offering a 90-minute walking tour of the locations that feature in the writer’s novels.

The tours take place every fourth Sunday of the month until November.

For more information call 01634 320598 or visitwww.whatsonmedway.co.uk

And when the walking bug has taken hold, try these Kentish treks...

Vineyard Tour, Meopham Valley Vineyard

01474 812727

Wine enthusiasts can enjoy a guided walk around the vineyard and discover the wine-making process. A tasting of the wines is included and visitors can buy their own bottles from the in-house shop. Cost £7.50. The next tours are on Saturday, May 19 and Sunday, May 20 at 3pm. Check website for other dates. Online booking only.

www.meophamvalleyvineyard.co.uk

White Cliffs Railways Walk, Dover

01304 202756

Discover the industrial railways that traversed Dover’s White Cliffs and enjoy the views. The tour includes a stop at the South Foreland Lighthouse’s new tea rooms. Saturday, May 19 from 10.30am to 3pm. The tour is free but admission charges to the site apply. Booking essential. Meet at the Visitor Centre, White Cliffs. Dogs on leads welcome.

Orchid and Botanical Weekend, Sandwich Bay Bird Observatory

01304 617341

Spend the day searching Sandwich Bay for orchids and other flowers with the help of expert guides. Bring binoculars along for a bit of bird-watching or relax after the walk with some light refreshments in the Field Centre. The two-hour long tours take place on Saturday, June 9 and Sunday, June 10 and start at 10am, noon and 2pm. Cost £2.50.

Ghost Tour, Canterbury

0845 519 0267

Night-time tour of Canterbury, where you can learn about the city’s darker side. Who haunts the sinisterly named Dark Entry passageway at the cathedral and what happens to those who see her? What secrets lie hidden within Tiny Tim’s Tea Rooms? The 90-minute tour, led by John Hippisley, is on Fridays and Saturdays from 8pm. Meet at Alberrys Wine Bar in St Margaret’s Street. Tickets £9.

Pre-booking is recommended.

Canterbury

01227 459779

Explore Canterbury’s medieval streets, the cathedral precincts and learn about the city’s famous residents in this 90-minute guided tour. Taking in three UNESCO World Heritage sites, the tour departs twice daily at 11am and 2pm from the Buttermarket. Tickets can be bought at the Canterbury Visitor Centre, the Roman Museum, or online, and cost £6.50. canterburyguidedtours.com

Gad’s Hill Place, Higham, near Gravesend

01474 337600

This is the house Dickens aspired to own, bought in 1856, and died in. He wrote Great Expectations and A Tale of Two Cities while living here, as well as playing host to Hans Christian Andersen. The tour of the house will be followed by afternoon tea. Cost £7.50, including tea. They take place on Sunday, May 20 and Sunday, May 27 from 11am to 1pm, and from noon to 2pm. Booking is essential.

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