The Belgian city of Antwerp is the diamond captial of the world and like those sparkling gems its beauty is just as radiant, though not so immediately obvious, writes Jeff Fuidge.

The 10-minute drive from the airport, just a comfortable 50-minute hop from London City Airport with VLM Airways, leaves the first-time visitor feeling a little apprehensive as they make their way through the rather dull residential streets.

But once in the buzzing centre it’s a completely different story and with a little homework, a comfortable pair of walking shoes, a good guide book or better still an official tour guide, the true brilliance of this historic and vibrant city is revealed.

In a city, which is host to 241 different nationalities shared among the 460,000-odd population, everyone is friendly and outgoing and appear to have time to spare – yes, people even smile as they go about their business. Shopkeepers, restaurateurs and (in my case even a busy fashion designer) were only too happy to take time out to talk about their businesses and life in general.

The must-see places depend on your particular interest. If you want culture there’s a list as long as your arm, from The Royal Museum of Fine Arts to the home of one of Antwerp’s more famous sons, Rubens. You can visit his wonderfully restored house, which has some fine works of art as well as furniture of his day. There is magnificent architecture with some intricate and beautiful examples of Art Nouveau buildings scattered throughout the city and more striking architecture comes in the shape of the Cathedral of Our Lady with its 123-metre tower and the stunning Town Hall in the Grote Markt nearby.

If shopping is high on your list, you can combine it with what Antwerp is most famous for, diamonds. A visit to the Diamond Museum will give you some idea of what you can’t possibly afford before you go out and buy that little sparkler of your own. Everything from a diamond-encrusted tennis racquet to a beautiful and delicate Art Nouveau necklace is on show.

The museum also gives the visitor an insight into how diamonds are formed and the history behind the most powerful and sought after of nature’s treasures.

A short walk will take you into the diamond district and the Krochmal & Leiber diamond cutting factory where you can see gems being cut and polished, but you must make a reservation (03 23 233 21 69). Once armed with the knowledge of what to look for, the next part is simple, as there are hundreds of jewellery shops waiting to offer you the deal you will not be able to resist.

Shoppers need not stop there either, as Antwerp is home to new generation of fashion designers. The fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, has spawned the likes of Bernhard Willhelm, Lieve Van Gorp and Tim Van Steenbergen to name a few. There are designer shops galore as well as a healthy number of High Street names on offer.

By the way Labels Inc, a small shop in Aalmoezeinerstraat, sells catwalk clothes and designer shop overstock at a fraction of the original price and with all the money you save, you can shop until you drop in Belgium’s busiest shopping street The Meir.

Relaxing is also a pleasant pastime in this busy city. There are inner courtyards - often hidden - and tranquil havens to be discovered. One such oasis is Vlaeykensgang (Oude Koornmarkt 16) with a beautiful inner garden, an orchard and a little pond, surrounded by cobblestone streets next to St Catherine’s Church. Also the botanical gardens, near the huge central railway station, with a collection of 2,000 noteworthy or rare plants and herbs, provide a quiet but interesting break from the hustle and bustle.

With so much to do and see that I haven’t even touched upon, you’ll find yourself having to return to Antwerp simply because you’ll never stop being surprised.

Turn a corner and there’s an interesting café or restaurant you’ve not seen before. Walk down a street and above you is a balcony designed in the shape of the bow of an old wooden ship or while travelling in one of the trams, buses or taxis, you’ll see a park you have to make a note of to visit when you come back.

Like the diamonds it is famous for, Antwerp will never cease to enthral.

Places to eat

While in the diamond quarter, there are many cafes, bistros and restaurants, but for something different try Hoffy’s Restaurant, in Lange Kievitstraat, (Tel. 03 23 435 35) where you enjoy Kosher food and wine. Not only delicious, but the owner Mr Hoffman will explain the menu and more.

The Dome, Grote Hondstraat 2, (03 23 990 03) with its one Michelin star offers sumptuous French cuisine and fabulous service in a relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy great food and wine without being rushed.

Accommodation

I stayed in the very comfortable four star Astrid Park Plaza (03 23 203 12 34) near the Diamond Museum and opposite the Central Station. It has a swimming pool and gym, a trendy restaurant and bar and parking. Prices are from 83 Euro for a standard double room. Go to www.parkplaza.com for details and bookings

A comprehensive list of accommodation can be found at www.antwerpen.be

For guided tours or general information go to www.visitflanders.co.uk

VLM Airlines, flies non-stop from London City Airport to Antwerp five times every weekday, once on Saturday and twice on Sunday. Prices start from £29 per person one-way plus taxes and charges. For information and reservations, call VLM Airlines on 0871 666 5050 or visit www.flyvlm.com