Home   Romney Marsh   News   Article

We visit the incredible Romney Marsh church on its own little island

Surrounded by grazing livestock and rushing rivers, curiosity called my name when I saw a striking image of a Kent church which has stood for more than a thousand years.

Legend has it, St Thomas Becket Church came into being in Fairfield, Romney Marsh, during the 12th century after the then Archbishop of Canterbury fell into one of the many ditches and prayed for a miracle to save him from a watery death.

St Thomas Becket Church in Romney Marsh can only be accessed by crossing a bridge. Picture: Steven Rees
St Thomas Becket Church in Romney Marsh can only be accessed by crossing a bridge. Picture: Steven Rees
Surrounded by farmland - is this Kent's best-kept secret?
Surrounded by farmland - is this Kent's best-kept secret?

Just in time, a farmer came to his aid, and as an expression of gratitude, the Archbishop had the church built.

Now, Visit Kent calls the site “arguably the most iconic of all the churches on Romney Marsh,” so I set out to see the grand old structure myself. I give the sat nav a vague address, and away we go.

As I near our destination, I’m directed off the main drag onto a single-track that winds through acres of countryside, allowing views for miles around.

It’s here I first spot the dominating shape of St Becket towering above the surrounding lowland.

I pull up in a nearby lay-by. There’s no car park here, but it looks to be a frequent spot for travellers from far and wide to begin the first step in our quest, finding the church door key.

A nearby house holds the key to St Thomas Becket Church in Romney Marsh
A nearby house holds the key to St Thomas Becket Church in Romney Marsh
The huge key was the first sign of the age of the site
The huge key was the first sign of the age of the site

I was reliably informed that a house some 200 yards away held what I sought and, sure enough, attached to the gatepost, under a sign aptly reading “church key,” I found it.

It’s a rather weighty piece of steel, which gives me a first impression of how ancient the site I’m about to enter is.

I make my way back, crossing the footpath, where I’m greeted by another couple of sightseers who inform me they’ve stopped on their travels to take in the site.

“We had no idea this was here,” they said.

“It’s incredible, a really beautiful site. I’d love to know more about it.

Through a public foot path is the route to the church
Through a public foot path is the route to the church
The only way to access St Thomas Becket Church in Romney Marsh is by crossing a bridge
The only way to access St Thomas Becket Church in Romney Marsh is by crossing a bridge

“It doesn’t look like it's been used for years.”

As it turns out, the church does, in fact, burst into life once a month.

After all, the homes belonging to the original medieval inhabitants of Fairfield have long since disappeared.

But a modest sized and dedicated group of worshippers regularly make the trek for service on the first Sunday of each month – otherwise it remains locked, except for the odd visitor like myself.

Onwards, we go, taking in the remarkable views. Not a hill is in sight, just rolling fields and the occasional farm building.

Our reporter Louis Walker went to find out more about St Thomas Becket Church in Romney Marsh
Our reporter Louis Walker went to find out more about St Thomas Becket Church in Romney Marsh
A church has stood on the site in Romney Marsh for more than a thousand years
A church has stood on the site in Romney Marsh for more than a thousand years

St Becket is one of 14 medieval churches scattered throughout Romney Marsh’s unique landscape, a significant amount given the relatively small number of parishioners.

Historically, lords of the manors on the Marsh built the churches to serve communities with the help of exceptionally talented craftspeople.

Despite the area’s scant population, they were often designed as tall structures to reflect the importance of the parish or patron.

Today they offer a snapshot into the past, especially a smattering of ruined churches whose villages and congregations have long since vanished.

Not far from St Thomas Becket, they can be found at Eastbridge between Newchurch and Burmarsh,

Photos inside the church show it during its construction
Photos inside the church show it during its construction

Hope All Saints’ remains can be found a mile north-west of New Romney and Midley on the way to Lydd, which fell into decay by 1573.

But today St Becket still stands as a simple structure of timber and lath.

First constructed around 1200, it survived until around the 18th century when the frame was encased in brick walls and the roof covered with red tiles.

In 1912, a complete rebuilding of the framework was required, but the interior was fortunately left untouched.

After crossing the river, a quick wander around the site shows it still to be much like this iteration, with just a few signs of its age visible.

A pair of timber doors slowly creek open as I enter the church
A pair of timber doors slowly creek open as I enter the church
The pews are arranged in rectangles inside St Thomas Becket church in Romney Marsh
The pews are arranged in rectangles inside St Thomas Becket church in Romney Marsh

Being a particularly brisk Monday morning and the wind continuing to bite, now seems like a good time to head inside.

There’s suddenly something quite eerie about my surroundings as the large timber door creeks slowly to a close.

The silence is overwhelming, with only the muffled sounds of howling wind for company.

Yet, it must be said that it is really a step back in time. Very little appears to have changed in the last 200 years.

My eyes are immediately drawn to the peculiar pews arranged in four squares compared to rows and painted in a brilliant white with a black lining.

Very little appears to have changed for hundreds of years inside St Thomas Becket church in Romney Marsh
Very little appears to have changed for hundreds of years inside St Thomas Becket church in Romney Marsh
There is no electricity inside St Thomas Becket Church in Fairfield, Romney Marsh
There is no electricity inside St Thomas Becket Church in Fairfield, Romney Marsh

It certainly adds to the theatrical atmosphere as a three-tiered pulpit of the same design looks down upon them.

You can really imagine groups huddled together for warmth during a sermon because, quite charmingly, this church has no electricity.

The rest of the building is a real architectural gold mine, making a real feature of the low timber arches that stretch the width of the site.

Although the world outside these walls may have moved on, this church remains a monument to a bygone era.

I take in the silence and beauty of the space one last time before battling the heavy door and sticking lock, I return the key and seek the safety of my car away from the elements.

Bible quotes adorn the walls inside the church
Bible quotes adorn the walls inside the church

Truly this ancient church is one of Kent’s best-kept secrets, even being kept under lock and key.

Close This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse the site you are agreeing to our use of cookies.Learn More