Secret Drinker reviews Shepherd Neame's Spitfire pub in Kings Hill, near West Malling

whatsoneditor@thekmgroup.co.uk

Published: 05:00, 28 October 2022 | Updated: 16:21, 18 November 2022

Kings Hill, first developed in 1989, has sprawled ever wider for three decades and each time I visit hundreds more homes have mushroomed.

Mirroring this mass house building, I notice a third supermarket has moved into the ‘village’, near West Malling, to join Asda and Waitrose.

Built on a former Battle of Britain RAF base, it’s not difficult to understand what inspired the naming of The Spitfire pub on Liberty Square in Kings Hill

Despite an ever-swelling population and the introduction of an Aldi, this massive development is still served by just one pub.

The Spitfire, on Liberty Square, was built 10 years after the first house went up and 23 years later still holds a privileged, unchallenged position at the heart of the sprawl.

I hadn’t visited since Shepherd Neame splashed £1m on renovating the place a few years ago and was interested to see how it has changed.

We entered through the slightly tropical looking back gate and walked through the garden, which now has a well-developed kids’ playground and covered dining area protected by the same sort of awning Sheps has encouraged many of its pubs to install.

If you approach the pub from the car park then you enter through this slightly tropical looking gated entrance to the back garden

The vast majority of pumps were off – no Masterbrew, no Whitstable Bay and, most surprisingly absent here, not even any Spitfire.

The only one on was Late Red, Sheps own 4.5% copper-coloured autumn bitter so I went for that and dutifully purchased Mrs SD’s usual large Sauvignon Blanc.

The wine was pretty decent and the pint not bad at all, quite woody with a rich, slightly nutty flavour that slots right into autumn.

It might be late but at least the 4.5 per cent Late Red bothered to turn up! No Master Brew, no Whitstable Bay and, most surprisingly, no Spitfire

So, the drinks are fine, what about the pub? Where did all that £1m go?

I’d previously written The Spitfire off as a fairly bland pub, with a lacklustre clientele and non-imaginative management, so has a huge refurbishment changed the place?

The centre of the pub feels more open, a massive, modern log-burner has been installed and the outside area has been improved enormously, but these things aside I’d revert to my original opinion. I just can’t get excited about this place, it’s a good job the fire wasn’t on or I’d have nodded off for sure, there’s zero atmosphere.

There’s plenty of lighting around the bar and plenty of room on that large, leather sofa

The quiz machine has gone, there’s still no pool or darts, there’s a big screen above the fire (not switched on), one large electronic fruit machine and plenty of trendy looking furnishings.

Strangely, a small office-style area, complete with shelves full of files, has been installed in the centre of the pub and staff take it in turns to sit in the space at a computer and ignore everything else going on around them.

There were plenty of staff on duty for a quiet lunchtime, six at least, and everyone, except the manager, was wearing a T-shirt emblazoned with Shep's American pale ale, Bear Island.

Subtle lighting and some clever stacked storage of wine bottles creates the feel of an old-fashioned snug in this smaller area above the main bar

This cubicle with glass screens serves as an office area, though I’m not sure why it has been installed right at the heart of the pub

So little was going on I took a wander out of the bar to take a look at the rest of the pub.

I was going to take the lift upstairs to the Lancaster Bar but when the doors opened it was being used to store black bin bags. Taking the stairs instead I walked in to find a couple sitting around on stacked chairs and tables sharing a packed lunch with their kids.

Back downstairs the clock had ticked on and we were joined by a gaggle of either yummy mummies or childminders pushing a fleet of suitably trendy, expensive looking buggies. Fortunately, as soon as the rug rats found their voices to complain about the pub they were swiftly wheeled through the large glass doors and taken outside.

I was going to take the lift to the Lancaster Bar but it was stacked with bin bags. I checked it on my way down too but found flattened cardboard boxes had been added to the bags while I was up there

There is plenty of framed Spitfire memorabilia lining the stairs up to the Lancaster Bar

There were already several people sitting in the large garden taking advantage of the last rays of seasonal sunshine but they soon supped up and moved on once the screamers arrived.

To be fair the work put into improving this outside area has paid off, it’s the inside of the pub which is sadly less impressive and I couldn’t help thinking if it had local competition this place could struggle.

There are designated areas for dining, which are well presented, and, apart from not having beer of the same name, the pub takes full advantage of the rich Spitfire heritage.

Outside The Spitfire had undergone a radical overhaul and this impressive, covered seating area is protected by a huge awning

Individual seating areas have been created within the pub and each has been decorated in its own style

The toilets were clearly included in the makeover but keeping them fresh and clean on a regular, daily basis appears to be more of a challenge for the staff.

The real problem is the staff just don’t have any interest in the place and this ambivalent attitude transfers to their dealings with customers.

It’s a great shame but little has changed here – bland pub, bland music, bland clientele.

Bring on some decent competition.

Upstairs, linked to the Lancaster Bar, you’ll find a smaller room set aside as a conference area

The Spitfire, 1 Liberty Square, Kings Hill, West Malling ME19 4AU

Decor: The furniture has been well renovated and in parts the pub is both comfortable, and tastefully decorated, but overall it’s fairly bland and the garden outshines anything inside. ***

Drink: It was disappointing not to have more options available on draft, but theLate Red autumn ale is a decent seasonal pint. Mrs SD described the Sauvignon Blanc as a decent enough, middle-of-the-road white. **

Price: The nutty, copper-coloured pint of Late Red cost me just shy of a fiver at £4.90 and a large glass of Sauvignon Blanc was £6.80. **

Staff: I did ask the barmaid why there was so little available on tap but she just shook her head and said: “No idea”. Sadly it feels as if the team here has switched off – they weren’t rude, just not engaged. **