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I’ve spotted the South Eastern on Margate Road a few times over the years but never quite ventured in, either because it wasn’t easy to stop or I didn’t quite fancy the look of it.
But, I was in Ramsgate with a little time to spare and a bright banner declaring ‘Under new management’, not to mention a large Jamaican flag, intrigued me enough to get me through the door.
Once in I faced a Storm, but fortunately this was just the name of the barmaid, who in reality had a much sunnier disposition.
I immediately ordered a Red Stripe (after all, when in Rome) and also tentatively eyed up one or two of the other very Jamaican wares on offer.
There was already one fellow sat at the bar polishing off a very decent-looking portion of jerk chicken and another large, very well-spoken, gent followed me through the door and ordered a large curried goat.
The fantastic food smells emanating from the kitchen were only broken by the occasional smoky waft of something equally Caribbean drifting in from outside.
Storm only started a few months ago but says she’s settled into the team quickly and loves it here – she’s clearly developed a bond with the locals, one of whom was kindly helping sort out her car insurance for her.
There was a gaggle of young American lads playing darts and the pool table was also in use most of the time I was in.
The majority of the inside of the pub has a very traditional feel, with a large, central wooden bar, brown wooden furniture and upholstered benches but there was a bike parked across the fireplace and several more modern bar stools.
The current owners, Claire and Andrew, have had this free house for about a year and, according to my new goat curry-eating mate, have been working hard to turn it around as it used to have a ‘decidedly dodgy reputation’.
He says chef Andrew returns to his native Jamaica every winter so it’s not surprising the food is authentic and people who rate good Caribbean food are prepared to travel for it.
The sign above the bar reads: ‘A good selection of draught, bottled beers and lagers at realistic value for money prices’ but it is so chilled around here you can’t believe all the signs, either inside or out, as the new owners haven’t got round to changing them just yet.
Although, I was assured the sign advertising mince chicken callaloo patties for £2.50 each is spot on and everything about them is totally homemade.
There was plenty of interest in the dartboard and I even saw a second one at the bottom end of the pub beyond the equally well-used pool table and old-fashioned fruit machine. But most folks were happy just chilling and chatting in the relaxed atmosphere.
I did spot a big screen over the second fireplace but it wasn’t switched on thank goodness and a young fellow, who favoured his jeans low-slung, appeared to collect his bike from fireplace number one.
By now I’d identified another authentic Jamaican tipple on a shelf behind the bar and treated myself to a wonderful bottle of 7.5% Dragon Stout. As deep and dark as I remember, it also has some great caramel flavours which add sweetness. If you haven’t tried one previously, get along to the South Eastern and further your education.
I didn’t sample a Cruzcampo but I did notice those who were favouring this Sevilla lager were having it served in Fosters’ glasses – apparently they’ve found it pours better and the head lasts longer than if it’s served in its own, bowl-style, glasses. And, if it’s true and wasn’t a wind-up, I learned something new, did you know glasses have a shelf life and need to be thrown away as they deteriorate?
I’ve been lucky enough to visit Jamaica several times and, on each occasion, had a fantastic time. So, the drink, and particularly the food created, and crafted, by Andrew, at the South Eastern sparked very happy memories, but it is the atmosphere created by Claire which really make this place a success.
Somehow she and Andrew have managed to weave enough traditional Jamaican vibes into a back street boozer in Ramsgate to transform it and give it a whole new, and seemingly successful, lease of life.
SOUTH EASTERN TAVERN, 11 MARGATE ROAD, RAMSGATE CT11 7SP
Décor: Perhaps dating back about 100 years, this baronial-style pub has plenty of character but also feels relaxed and chilled out. I couldn’t describe it as smart, but I felt at home the moment I sat down. ****
Drink: Perfectly poured, I’ve always been a fan of 4.7% Red Stripe and, while it might be a slightly more acquired taste, I also rate Dragon Stout. The Cruzcampo in a Fosters’ glass was good too and certainly better than Fosters in a Fosters’ glass! ****
Price: A pint of Red Stripe was the right side of a fiver at £4.80 and a bottle of Dragon Stout was just £3.50. A Cruzcampo is £5 and the jerk chicken looked an absolute bargain for a tenner. ****
Staff: Storm is fairly new to the pub but she’s clearly settled in well and is doing a good job. But, Claire’s entrance was like a breath of fresh air and the whole atmosphere lifted – she obviously loves what she does. *****
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