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Secret Drinker reviews the Cherry Tree pub in Canterbury

We all know the start to the old joke: “What’s brown and sticky?”

Well, in the Cherry Tree in Canterbury, the punchline is just about everything – the floor, the tables, the walls, the bar and, by the time you leave, you as well.

The pub on White Horse Lane is open noon to 1am every day of the week
The pub on White Horse Lane is open noon to 1am every day of the week

A cocktail for just £4.50 might sound too good to be true, and when you hear it’s called a ‘Pig F*****’ you may well be questioning your drink selection.

By the time the plastic cup of sweet-tasting, almost fluorescent pink, stickiness has been put in your hand you’ll definitely be doubting yourself – and that’s before you’ve tasted it!

The date on the outside of this ancient back street tavern might read 1372, and there is an odd dark beam visible inside as well, but most of the interior has, I would respectfully suggest, been savaged over the years. You’ll now find a long, modern bar, a tacky brick arch, sticky stripped walls and even stickier boards on the floor.

The building, which I presume is listed, dates back more than 650 years but the bar is modern and spacious
The building, which I presume is listed, dates back more than 650 years but the bar is modern and spacious
Apparently, they have been pulling pints here since 1372 when it was the Fleur de Lis tap
Apparently, they have been pulling pints here since 1372 when it was the Fleur de Lis tap

Behind the bar I counted 19 taps and two further old ale pulls, though these looked as if they’d been redundant for a long time. Unfortunately, of the 19, the four most interesting taps all had plastic cups balanced on them, presumably indicating they were off. The barmaid confirmed Bloody ’Ell, Lost Lager, Curious Pilsner and Budvar were indeed all unavailable.

Having previously sampled the plastic pink stuff we both, very sensibly, rejected even the idea of ordering PFs and, from the remaining choices, I selected a Timothy Taylor’s Hopical Storm and my Apprentice the ubiquitous Beavertown Neck Oil.

Surprisingly, for a weekend evening at the start of term, it wasn’t wall-to-wall with students, though there were a few stragglers playing cards and ordering up PFs (which are pre-produced in sets of eight behind the bar for speed of delivery).

Identically priced, the Apprentice and I chose to start with a Beavertown Neck Oil and a Hopical Storm from Timothy Taylor
Identically priced, the Apprentice and I chose to start with a Beavertown Neck Oil and a Hopical Storm from Timothy Taylor
There were a couple of these barrel-style tables with a chess board printed on them – the chess pieces and draughts are available by leaving a deposit at the bar
There were a couple of these barrel-style tables with a chess board printed on them – the chess pieces and draughts are available by leaving a deposit at the bar

I’m sure these pink abominations, with a ‘secret’ recipe and tasting as if they’re devoid of alcohol, have been around a few years, but they certainly weren’t on offer when I first visited here as a student. Back then the place was a fairly equal mix of students and squaddies, which, sadly, all too often proved to be a volatile mix.

The gents has definitely been done up over the years but it is still competing to be the narrowest toilet in the city and two burly fellows will struggle to find a passing place. Fortunately, the sink has been kept small but unfortunately there can’t have been enough room left for any soap.

The toilets have been done up but there are tell-tale signs elsewhere that the Cherry Tree is still in the process of being improved – some items are wrapped in masking tape and several areas have gaps and holes that need filling.

Some areas of the pub have been repainted but they haven’t done this door yet
Some areas of the pub have been repainted but they haven’t done this door yet
The fruit machine is very much a modern electronic version, but the Street Fighter machine next to it looked a lot more retro
The fruit machine is very much a modern electronic version, but the Street Fighter machine next to it looked a lot more retro

The plaster has been knocked off a few walls and others have been rough plastered, there is wood panelling to a height of about three feet around most of the place and this has been painted in the favoured green pub colour.

There is no dartboard and no pool table but there were a couple of trendy wire lamps and a pack of cards on one windowsill. There was most definitely a modern jukebox which, when it played As Good As I Once Was by Rebel Pride, the Apprentice informed me it was country rock. When it then played Devil’s Toy by The Almighty he espoused his theory that jukeboxes can be set to play absolute garbage in the hope you’ll pump money in just to end the dreadful music.

There are no barstools in front of the bar but there are a few at the side, which are favoured by the regulars who wish to chat constantly to the bar staff.

I counted 19 taps in all, including three ciders at the side, but unfortunately the four most interesting ones to us were all off
I counted 19 taps in all, including three ciders at the side, but unfortunately the four most interesting ones to us were all off
Playing it safe, The Cherry Tree offers customers the chance to use a StopTopp to cover their drink
Playing it safe, The Cherry Tree offers customers the chance to use a StopTopp to cover their drink
The demand for the house cocktails is such that even at quieter times there are eight semi-prepared pink PFs ready to go behind the bar. The staff maintain that the recipe is a carefully guarded secret.
The demand for the house cocktails is such that even at quieter times there are eight semi-prepared pink PFs ready to go behind the bar. The staff maintain that the recipe is a carefully guarded secret.

It’s a fairly small place, but there is an area at the front of the pub in the cobbled, traffic-free lane set aside with picnic tables.

We decided to stay for a second and the Staropramen I selected, for £5.25, was a decent pint but the Apprentice gamely chose a Thatchers Cloudy Lemon for a fiver. Neither of us would normally leave a drink, but it wasn’t cloudy, didn’t taste of lemon and was so sweet it made your teeth scream louder than the jukebox – he won’t make this mistake again.

On the one hand, you could argue it’s good to see, in a city which now favours trendy, totally-overpriced pubs which are geared entirely to tourists, or visitors at least, there is still room for a grungy, largely student-based, sticky back street bar.

On the other hand, if you’re not quite as keen on the look and aroma generated by the sort of place that encourages cheap shots and scruffily dressed younger folk, then you’ll be better off avoiding the stickiness at the Cherry Tree.

Shots for £3 each is a reasonable deal, whether you choose a Baby Guinness or a Green Fairy. The house cocktail is a little more expensive at £4.50.
Shots for £3 each is a reasonable deal, whether you choose a Baby Guinness or a Green Fairy. The house cocktail is a little more expensive at £4.50.
We agreed to try something different for our second pint and I went for a Staropramen, while the Apprentice was really adventurous with a Thatchers Cloudy Lemon cider
We agreed to try something different for our second pint and I went for a Staropramen, while the Apprentice was really adventurous with a Thatchers Cloudy Lemon cider
There must still be some work going on here – this was the gap between the door frame, which is currently being used to dispose of empty crisp packets
There must still be some work going on here – this was the gap between the door frame, which is currently being used to dispose of empty crisp packets

THE CHERRY TREE, 10 WHITE HORSE LANE, CANTERBURY CT1 2RU

Décor: From the outside this listed tavern, dating back to 1372, is impressive and looks very inviting. Inside it has been adapted over the years to ensure it is now an attractive venue for local students. **

Drink: There were a number of interesting lagers available and also several ciders. Sadly a few were unavailable and there was no ale on tap. If you’re seeking shots and lower-end cocktails you’re in luck. ***

Price: A cocktail for £4.50 can’t be bad can it? And, relatively speaking, £5.50 for a Neck Oil isn’t that expensive these days. The Hopical was the same price as Neck Oil and Staropramen was £5.25. Shots are £3 each. ****

Staff: It wasn’t too busy so there was plenty of time for the bar staff to chat to their mates. I didn’t see any table wiping going on or empty glasses being cleared but they were efficient at serving. **

Competing for the narrowest pub toilet award, the gents, with its stainless steel urinal trough, is a bit of a squeeze
Competing for the narrowest pub toilet award, the gents, with its stainless steel urinal trough, is a bit of a squeeze
In a toilet this size it’s sensible not to have too large a sink but it was a shame there was no room for the soap.
In a toilet this size it’s sensible not to have too large a sink but it was a shame there was no room for the soap.
I couldn’t quite make out the details but it looks as if a few people have found it necessary to sign the back of the toilet door
I couldn’t quite make out the details but it looks as if a few people have found it necessary to sign the back of the toilet door
There were a few telltale signs, like things still covered in masking tape, that the pub has recently undergone some decoration
There were a few telltale signs, like things still covered in masking tape, that the pub has recently undergone some decoration

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