Each time I visit the Angel Inn, a striking 14th century village pub on Addington Green, I really want to like it.

It has plenty of character, history oozing out of every crevice, a dog menu and even a cosy log burner – what’s not to like?

One thing’s for sure, the place has definitely been brightened and lightened over the years. In keeping with buildings of this age it has low beamed ceilings, heavy wooden floors and small windows which used to make it feel really dark and somewhat cold. Now, the majority of dark brown expanses have been painted as white as possible and covered in strings of fairy lights.

There’s also a dog wall, a nicely polished traditional brass bell above the bar, a wine of the week and plenty of mildly humorous sayings on signs – ‘In God we trust, everybody else pays cash & card!

I started with a 4.3% Timothy Taylor’s Landlord, which was fine, and took a seat in front of the bar. There was a couple warming their cockles in front of the log burner but apart from this everyone else was in to eat and the tables around me soon began to fill up.

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It’s made clear this is a venue where dogs are actively encouraged so maybe I should have brought the SD Hound and older ladies also seem to be favoured, particularly for the lunchtime slot.

But, and here’s the rub, no matter how hard I try to like it I still think it lacks soul, the atmosphere just doesn’t exist and for some reason it doesn’t feel welcoming.

The couple in front of the fire assured me the tables outside, at both the front and the back, are packed during summer months and the girls waiting tables can wear out a pair of trainers a week running in and out.

They may well be right, but whenever I’ve been in, the welcome has felt, well, a little bit lacklustre, a touch perfunctory. There just something about it which comes across as ‘oh dear, we’ve got some customers now’.

Befitting for the season, there were Christmas tunes playing gently in the background and there are plenty of interesting nick-nacks dotted about, but generally it’s a bit beige and neutral. The fixtures and fittings are all fine and the old wooden floorboards and tartan-patterned carpet work well enough.

There were a fair few folk in for a Christmas lunch and these were largely well received, although it did go a little skewwhiff with some orders, which can happen at this time of year.

There is no pool table, no darts, no fruit machine and no jukebox, though there was one small screen at the back of the bar which was playing the news on a silent loop.

If I hadn’t been working I don’t think I’d have stayed for a second but as it was I chose a Cruzcampo and took a closer look at my surroundings and, in the words of dear old Jim Bowen, which other drinks I could have had. On the bar was a board advertising a White Christmas mojito cocktail for £8 and another one offering a mulled wine for a fiver, the wine of the week (red or white) was £16 a bottle. But, with the better half in mind, I noticed the large New Zealand Sav Blanc was £10.50 a full two quid more than its Chilean cousin!

However, it was the Sir Woofchester’s doggie menu which really caught my attention – a bark burger or sausages for £2.25, fish & chips or a roast dinner for £3.50. I reckon if I was hungry I might have opted for this – chuck some gravy on it and I’d be good to go.

There were several posters promoting the local choir B.A.R.T.s, including one in the gents, which are compact but beautifully maintained. I assume someone here is either a member, or a good friend, of the group.

So there you have it, the welcome feels about as neutral and underwhelming as the decoration, dogs are most welcome, ladies of a certain age are also okay and everyone else appears to be just about tolerated.

It’s a popular meeting place for folk as old as the surrounding North Downs and I’m sure they all smile at signs like ‘All you need is love, a dog and gin’ as they wait for their Christmas lunch to be delivered.

Just a footnote, I’ve tried popping into The Wheatsheaf on the nearby London Road a few times recently but it’s always been closed. No idea what’s happening with that one, can anyone enlighten me?

ANGEL INN, ADDINGTON GREEN, ADDINGTON, WEST MALLING ME19 5BB

Décor: It has been lightened up considerably inside but retains many of its wonderful historic touches. There has also been a lot of work done to improve the outdoor spaces. ****

Drink: On this occasion I decided to sample a pint of Landlord but Harvey’s Sussex Best was also on tap and there were a wide variety of alternatives available. ***

Price: The Timothy Taylor’s Landlord was £5 and a pint of Cruzcampo £6.30. Mulled wine was £5 and a White Christmas mojito cocktail £8. If Mrs SD had been present I’d have been paying £10.50 for a large Sav Blanc. **

Staff: It is understandably geared towards food, perhaps even more so at this time of year, so it’s not surprising everyone is kept busy delivering meals. **

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