On the one hand it feels a bit in the middle of nowhere, but the Amherst Inn is actually just yards from a fairly fast stretch of the A25 near Sevenoaks.

The pub has been through several incarnations over the years and it’s been a while since I’ve visited, so I wasn’t sure what to expect.

It was fairly quiet for a Saturday at 6pm and I was immediately welcomed by a couple of staff who first checked if I’d be dining or was just in for a pint?

Having confirmed it was the latter, Terry the barman said Timothy Taylor’s Landlord is the most popular choice but insisted I sample all three ales on tap before making a decision.

I usually rate Kent Brewery’s beers but on this occasion, the 3.7% session pale ale tasted a little vinegary and Young’s London Original was nondescript, so Landlord it was.

Having pulled my pint Terry lost concentration slightly and moved on without making any effort to collect payment. After a little while the manager introduced herself and suggested it might be sensible if she took my money.

Having finally settled up, she explained she’d only taken up her position a week ago after making a move from the Five Pointed Star in West Malling, where she’d worked for a year. When asked why she’d chosen a change of scene, she said it was all about the move to a ‘country pub’ which means she doesn’t have to work such long hours.

I took my pint and went for a look around to see what has changed since I was last in.

The pub is absolutely massive and made-up dining tables stretch into the distance in all directions.

The area at the back, left-hand side of the pub was completely deserted and the whole section is set aside ready for the carvery. The way it was laid out there was something which reminded me of a village farmers’ market and even the snacks, stacked up on the bar, are arranged in a similar way, a little bit market stall, or perhaps a reception area at a country hotel.

They seemed to have gone to an awful lot of trouble and expense over the presentation and I couldn’t help feeling a little sorry for the staff that it wasn’t busier.

The first quarter-final of the Rugby World Cup was just concluding but the large screen, proudly displaying Argentina’s victory, was playing to a non-existent audience.

There were a few diners in but they all seemed to favour the tables on the lower level of the pub and elsewhere was eerily quiet.

There’s no pool, darts or jukebox but there are clearly efforts being made to get folks through the door and the new manager explained they’re trying as many different approaches as possible. As well as a happy hour lasting two hours, five days a week, there are a whole host of entertainment evenings planned, steak night, pie night, Thank Cod it’s Thursday. And, the push to celebrate Halloween, and then Christmas, is obvious everywhere.

I’m pretty sure the last time I was in the pub used to be called the Crown Point Inn and I’m always a little wary about places which feel they need to make a name change. I have no idea when it changed, or why, but I get the feeling it’s always been challenging getting this venue to turn a profit.

There was a large glass barrel of bones on the bar and just to prove hounds are welcome we were soon joined by a family with a black ball of fluff who quickly made himself at home.

Apparently, this is a well-known dog walking patch and encouraging four-legged friends, accompanied by thirsty owners, is proving profitable.

For those old enough to remember, the kitchen bell to alert waiting staff was a little bit ‘Avon Calling’ and the time it rang out longest was when the manager’s own dinner was ready for collection. She certainly seemed to enjoy her food, but did stop eating long enough to promote the carvery on a Sunday and check her phone. Though she obviously isn’t on the same network as me as my reception was non-existent – a point I was reminded of by Mrs SD when I finally arrived home.

It’s clear that a good deal of investment has gone into the Amherst Inn, which has, according to one dog walker, a sister pub in Aylesford, and I will watch its progress with interest.

Perhaps this latest incarnation will prove the making of this country pub that’s tucked away just off a very busy main road.

AMHERST INN, SEVENOAKS ROAD, SEAL CHART, SEVENOAKS TN15 0HB

Decor: The place is absolutely massive and is well-furnished throughout. It did feel a bit of a cross between a farmers’ market and hotel reception but you certainly won’t be short of a seat. ***

Drink: There were three ales on draught, backed up by a trio of offerings from Brewdog and all the other usual suspects. ***

Price: A pint of Timothy Taylor’s Landlord was £4.30. Unsurprisingly, a Brewdog Hazy Jane was considerably more at £5.75 (although I only had £5.70 in change, which was acceptable). ***

Staff: Both Terry and his manager were attentive and insisted ‘I try before I buy’. They were keen to help and happy to chat. ****

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