It’s perhaps not where you’d expect to find fine dining cuisine.

Yet, a few hundred yards from the flashing neon signs of the seafront arcades, beyond the Donkey Derby machines and next to Paul’s Pie and Mash, there’s an unassuming little Indian restaurant in Leysdown, on the Isle of Sheppey, making a big name for itself.

Forget your cockles and whelks, we’re talking caviar and venison.

The Dining Room was opened in 2021 by Naz Chowdhury, who owned the Curryholics takeaway in Sheerness before embarking on his dream – to get a Michelin star.

In lieu of any official inspection, plenty of customers are leading the calls for that on TripAdvisor, while last year it was named Fine Dine Restaurant of the Year at the Asian Restaurant and Takeaway Awards.

So was it all it was cracked up to be, or did it plunge into that haute cuisine pitfall of being style over substance? And most importantly, would I leave hungry?

First impressions, judging by a quick recce of other people’s dishes, were to the contrary – why, oh why didn’t I opt for the elasticated waistband?

The menu had a good mix between the expected and the unexpected – deprive me of my chicken tikka at your peril!

There was the comfort of the samosas, onion bhajis, kormas, madrases and vindaloos.

But it was nice to see a less trodden path available – interesting lamb dishes, a swordfish dhansak and even a venison pathia.

Alas, the latter was limited to a separate pre-order menu along with a dish, described as “mind-blowing”, called nuclear chicken.

I wasn’t quite as sad to have missed out on that opportunity.

We decided on some poppadoms – non-negotiable in our house – followed by starters of pani puri (£9.95) – basically a posh Indian-style prawn cocktail in a pastry ball, topped with caviar – and the grilled chicken tikka supreme (£8.95).

Service was quick and unpretentious and the staff friendly and attentive, despite having a few big tables to deal with early doors.

The pani puri were pure art that tasted as good as they looked – little puffs filled with flavours of the sea.

And the tikka, complete with a tangy tamarind sauce and some cooling raita, was melt-in-the-mouth delicious.

Now for the mains. I went for the slow-cooked Jalfrezi-style lamb with basmati rice and fenugreek naan (£18.95) while my dining partner opted for the kaffir lime scented chicken, also with rice (£16.95).

I admit I baulked a little at the prices of the curries, hovering close to, or above the £20 mark.

But when you factor in the fact that many come with a side – or in my case two – it actually comes out pretty close to your regular high street curry house. And I bet your regular high street curry house never served up dishes like these. I never had to use my knife.

The lamb just surrendered and flaked apart while the chicken was the most succulent I’ve tasted. Aromatic, well-spiced, exquisite. And not the tiny portions you might expect when you hear ‘fine dining’.

The fact I saw no doggy bags going out with defeated diners clutching their stomachs had more to do with how moreish the food was, rather than any miserliness in the quantities.

I could – and probably should – have left then and there, entirely content.

But then, among an otherwise disappointingly English dessert menu of ice cream and cakes, I spied gulab jamun – my dessert Kryptonite. Warm little doughnuts with cardamom and rose, served here with fresh fruits and vanilla ice cream.

Our departure was delayed.

They were as good as any I’ve had, and topped off a flawless meal.

If I was being critical – and after all, you don’t just want to hear about me having a lovely tea, do you? – I’d say the creativity that went into the food was lacking in the decor.

It was plush, bright, and clean but had a touch of the conference hall banqueting suite about it – I would have preferred more of a nod to the restaurant’s heritage, and a little more intimacy.

But, the food really was top-notch.

Too often ‘fine dining’ is shorthand for fiddly and faddy. Why should I be subjected to foams and dry ice displays just because the chef got a new toy for Christmas?

But this was just good hearty food, done with finesse. And not so pricey you’d need to win on the Donkey Derby first to go there.

Sheppey might not spring to mind when you consider foodie paradises. Yet it has become home to the classy Banks Restaurant in Minster, the double AA-rosette winning Ferry House on the gorgeous marshes at Harty, and now this hidden gem in Leysdown.

Locals must be wishing the only way on and off the Island was still the old Kingsferry crossing. If I was them I’d be raising the drawbridge as we speak, and keeping these outstanding restaurants to myself...

Out of five:

Food: Couldn’t fault it. Beautifully presented, perfectly spiced, and oh, that chicken... *****

Drink: The usual beers and soft drinks, but also a decent wine list, top-of-the-shelf Champagnes and some unusual cocktails, such as a Cherry Bakewell, for the more adventurous *****

Decor: Lacking character, but spotless and comfortable nonetheless ***

Staff: Very friendly and pleasant, but service understandably got slower as the place filled up meaning a bit of a wait for the bill ****

Price: Yes, it’s a bit on the pricier side, but incredibly reasonable given the quality ****