When Debenhams decided to wave the white flag of financial surrender in 2021 and shut its shops, huge gaping holes appeared around our retail hubs.

None more so than at Thanet’s Westwood Cross where the chain had been an anchor tenant in its most recognisable building.

This begged the question: in a world where department stores are on the way out, how do you fill such vast areas of floor space?

The answer? Make it an entertainment hub. So while much work is ongoing (the site is still ringed with ‘coming soon’ barriers, with an all-dancing, all-singing Hollywood Bowl and a Jump Inc trampoline park in the works) one part of the premises has returned to life.

In it has opened the Riparo Lounge – part of The Lounges chain of which there are more than 200 nationwide, among them the likes of the Acordo Lounge in Deal and Sentado Lounge in Sittingbourne. I must admit, until this one opened, I’d never heard of them. But then I am old and dreadfully out of touch, so that means nothing.

It is, however, clearly determined to try and please all the people all the time. The menu boasts all-day breakfasts, tapas, burgers, Mexican, Malaysian, brunch, cakes, salads, flatbreads and plenty more besides (including vegan and veggie options). It’s part coffee shop, part bar, part restaurant.

The question is – and what I fear: is it a jack of all trades but a master of none?

So on a gloomy old Sunday lunchtime, we decide to check it out. Firstly, it has managed a quite remarkable feat. And that is, given it is currently sat at the foot of something resembling a building site, the moment you step inside you feel transported elsewhere.

It’s warm, it’s welcoming and it was bustling with people. So busy, in fact, as we arrive (you can’t book in advance unless you’re a group of six or more) we had a Mary and Joseph experience; there was no room at the inn.

Told to give it 15 minutes, we strolled around the shopping complex before returning. True to his word, the guy who turned us away before, promised he’d remember us and keep us a spot.

Inside it’s large, a more casual coffee area at one end and the rest tables of all shapes and sizes in front of a large bar. There’s outdoor seating too if you want to brave the elements. The decor is worth noting. There are ‘paintings’ hung on every bit of wall – tassled lamp shades hang from the ceiling. It’s odd...but, strangely, it works. Interior designers would say there’s too much going on (and crikey, there is) – but that’s clearly the vibe they’re after; it’s colourful and cosy.

The age range of customers during our visit goes from young families to elderly couples.

If the company you’re with isn’t enough to keep you engaged, there are books to read, crayons to keep kids entertained and even a host of games to play. Once again, it seems keen to ensure all bases are covered.

Ordering is via app or at the bar from the menus on the table. The options are vast.

We opt for tapas – a chance to give a few dishes a twirl and the ideal food for picking at while chatting – and use the app.

Drinks arrive (a Diet Coke at £3.25 and sparkling water at £2.60) within moments, but it’s a 20-minute wait for the food to arrive. A tad too long, but it’s busy, so we’ll let it go.

The tapas is £4.95 a plate or £13.25 for three. We get six dishes in total; the classic patatas bravas (cubes of potato with roasted garlic mayo); honey-whipped feta with pitta bread, salt and pepper squid, bang bang fried cauliflower (with ssamjang mayo and chilli ketchup); cheddar and sweetcorn fritters and a garlic flatbread.

First bite with the eyes? All looks good.

The cheddar and sweetcorn fritters come with a chipotle chilli jam which, as it disappears down your throat, delivers a decent heat kick. The honey-whipped feta does a fine job of cooling the warmth, while the fried cauliflower is well-cooked and packs a decent taste.

The patatas bravas are nothing to write home about – but not dissimilar to the last time I had it, on a sun-soaked street in Seville, so it would be hard to criticise the way the Spanish do it.

However, the stand-out is the salt and pepper squid which is melt-in-the-mouth delicious. A light batter and the sort of dish you want to order about three more of. I resist the urge...but only just.

All in all, I’m impressed. For a casual dining experience, the food – or at least the tapas – was very good, all the staff extremely friendly and cheerful and the vastness of its menu means a return trip will mean trying out something completely new.

There were puddings (of course there were – only old boot straps are not on this menu), but frankly that would have been a step too far...we’d eaten well.

Westwood Cross was right on the verge of being seriously diminished by the closure of the big chain stores. This, along with the Hollywood Bowl and other offerings, should help give it a welcome shot in the arm.

Out of five:

Food: Enormous range – and I can’t speak for much of it – but the tapas was a real treat and makes me want to come again to explore more of the menu ****

Drink: What you say about a Diet Coke and a fizzy water? Tasted like it should. But, again, the options were gargantuan – milkshakes, cocktails, coffees, pints and the list goes on ****

Decor: Jarring at first, you rather warm to it while munching away and I ended up thinking it was gloriously over the top but worked well to create an atmosphere *****

Staff: Given how busy it was, the staff were all excellent. Some pitta bread was missing from our order but it was instantly rectified *****

Price: A good quality, filling, meal for two, with (soft) drinks for £32.35 – a good deal ****