Travel anywhere in the world and everyone will tell you if there’s a big queue at a food outlet, it’s generally a sign of quality. It’s where the locals go, they say.

But there is also an issue of location. So, for example, if you have a fish and chip shop a stone’s throw from the Turner Contemporary in revitalised Margate, do the queues which regularly stretch down the road suggest top-notch grub or mere convenience for the visiting hordes?

Peter’s Fish Factory has been plying its trade as a purveyor of the classic British seaside dish since 1984. It has ridden the town’s rollercoaster of changing fortunes and appears to have become a regular stop-off for the thousands of day-trippers who now flood the town during the high season.

In fact, on a recent visit to the town while wearing my Eat My Words hat I had to take a detour to circumnavigate the queue to reach another eatery I had my eye on.

But it is a no-frills chippy. And this is a town where a short stroll takes you to the brightly-coloured Beach Buoys outlet where you can order on a touchscreen, get a text to tell you when your order is ready and offers battered banana blossom, crab and a host of other deep-fried treats. In other words, a place playing to the new breed of well-heeled visitors good old Margate now pulls in. The sort who regularly use Instagram. Unlike me.

Peter’s Fish Factory, though, is 100% old school. And there’s a lot to be said for that. I prefer a chippy where the main option outside fish and chips are a pickled egg. Instagram-friendly, however, it is not.

So when better to review the food than on a chilly January midweek lunchtime? And the good news is there were just two chaps in front of me waiting on their chips when I arrive. But it also explains why there’s always a big queue.

The place is tiny so if you’re not ordering you will, almost inevitably, be stood on or outside the door. Which, given the temperatures when we visit, is almost enough to call the whole thing off. But we are made of sterner stuff.

We persevere and before we know it, an order for a fish burger (£4.50) – as trumpeted as ‘new’ on a board outside – is placed along with some chips (£3). I also spot an unusual ‘ball’ of batter on the hot plate which, I’m told, is a pea fritter – albeit the likes of which I’ve never seen before.

“Mushy peas fried in batter? Why not?” I think to myself. If you can’t clog your arteries when on a trip to the seaside, when can you? I order one (£2.10).

Despite the serving area not being big enough to swing a kitten, let alone a cat, Peter’s Fish Factory does have seating – there are tables marked ‘Pete’s’ outside you can perch on or, somewhat bizarrely, a small room with tables if you stroll around the corner and walk down the road for a bit – ‘Pete’s seats’ is the sign you’re looking for.

But the sun is attempting to cut through the icy blast, so we perch outside.

First impressions are, truth be told, a tad underwhelming. Only Insta fans keen to lose followers would probably be taking snaps of what has been served. Let’s just say no element is going to win a beauty contest.

But beauty is not merely skin deep, as I’ve always had to tell myself.

The fish burger – with gherkins and tartar sauce – is, I’m surprised to say, an absolute treat. The fish is generous (it far outsizes the brioche bun it is housed in), fresh and the batter light. It is perfect lunchtime fodder. The fella serving us had thrown in an extra bit of fish too which was not to be sniffed at.

The chips look like they are going to be thoroughly underwhelming; a tad lifeless and lacking that crispy exterior which can be so enticing – yet also deliver when it comes to taste. You know what a good chip tastes like. So far, so good.

But what of this pea fritter? I must admit I am no big fan of mushy peas. It seems to take the humble – and very tasty – pea and dry and crush it into something I can only describe as tasting dull and lifeless. They even look boring. Wrapped in batter, however, they do come to life somewhat. Would I order it again? Probably not, but I may be tempted. And that’s quite something given my animosity with mushy peas over the years.

So, for the grand total of £9.60 I’ve eaten well. Does Peter’s Fish Factory deserve the attention it seems to command judging by the regular queues snaking out of the door? I’d have to say, to my pleasant surprise, yes.

Out of five:

Food: Fish and chips is a hit-and-miss affair, generally – either they’re great or mediocre. Given the price of cod these days, a burger seemed a better option. The chips and even that pea fritter delivered on the taste test ****

Drink: Call me tight, but I didn’t buy one. I know what a Diet Coke tastes like though ***

Decor: Bijou serving area which delivers if the classic fish and chip floats your boat – nice seating around the corner (and outside for that matter), but easy to miss ***

Staff: Friendly, efficient and what’s not to like about getting an extra bit of fish thrown in for free? *****

Price: £9.60 for a decent array of hot food in this day and age is no mean feat. Shared between two of us, if made for a tasty lunch *****