Dishes at a trendy restaurant have been lauded by one of the UK's top food critics for being "an expression of exquisitely good taste".

Sargasso in Margate received the rave reviews from Jay Rayner, who sampled its Cantabrian anchovies, whipped cod's roe on toast and clams.

While acknowledging some will "roll their eyes" at it, the writer noted the eatery's team of chefs "makes the very best things look very simple".

In this weekend's Observer, he said: "The menu, divided between half a dozen small plates and a similar number of larger offerings, manages to reflect perfectly its hard-scrabble coastal setting.

"Some of it, like those glorious anchovies, to be eaten with the springiest of hard-crusted sourdoughs, is merely about the ingredients. Don’t forget to mop.

"There are others that have demanded more thought."

Mr Rayner described the whipped cod's roe as being "a wistful fondant-fancy pink" and piped in "buxom whorls" across a piece of toast.

A boiled egg - which had "a sunset of runny yolk" - was placed on top of the £8 dish.

The broth in which the clams were served was also said to be a "ripe" and "snout-thumping".

The famed foodie also cleared portions of asparagus with "lemony melted butter", friggitelli peppers and parmesan fritters.

"It is finger food, designed by someone who believes a plate should be cleared," Mr Rayner continued.

"I get the message. I clear the plate down to its shiny monogram.

"I can predict the reactions against it from those who flare their nostrils at what they regard as posturing.

"All that means is that they won’t get to eat those anchovies or that crab salad, in that building with those sounds and that view."

Sargasso was awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide this year - and earlier this month came in at number 89 in the coveted Top 100 list by the Estrella Damm National Restaurant Awards.

Overlooking the town's harbour, the restaurant focuses on freshly caught seafood, and is the sister restaurant to highly rated Hackney stalwart Brawn, bringing "a slice of east London to Margate’s Old Town".

Judges said: "While the food is largely locally sourced, the restaurant’s seasonally-driven menu takes inspiration from European coastal cooking.

"Expect gutsy, carefully executed riffs on classics such as mussels mariniere; butter-fried sole; and smoked eel with celeriac remoulade.

"Margate might not quite be the French Riviera, but this is soon forgotten when eating at this north Kent gem."

Sargasso serves up mains ranging in price from £8 to £19, while punters having its Sunday set menu have to fork out £45 each.