Antwerp is a city of many sides, both culturally and historically, and it is this constant feeling of change that greets any visitor.

I have travelled to the popular destinations in Flanders such as Bruges and Ghent but, upon arrival, Antwerp felt like a well-kept secret as it encompassed everything that the other cities offered but without the fanfare.

Sitting at the start of the River Scheldt, Antwerp was once the major market for all textiles, sugars, spices and diamonds, for which it is still famous worldwide.

Streets blend into each other, classic cobblestones merging into tarmac or slab-laid surfaces, punctuated with tram lines and cycle routes. These varied surfaces gave the very first clues to what lay ahead when I arrived during a public holiday, the feast of the assumption of Mary, (which in Antwerp is also the celebration of Mother’s Day) and this meant the roads around the centre of town were closed to traffic, local residents taking to the streets to eat, drink and celebrate.

The main square, the Grote Market, overlooked by the 16th- and 17th-century guildhalls, is transported back to the 17th century with over 200 stalls, and their owners, all dressed in the costumes of the period make you think that you had stepped back in time.

Children played, families gathered at tables filled with regional dishes washed down by local beers and the whole of Antwerp became a massive, happy party.

And here is where the city really reveals its hidden charms. Take a short walk in any direction from the centre and you will enter a different vibe from road to road, street to street. You can enjoy the baroque feel of the city as you sample a glass of one of the city’s popular bolleke beer, named after the goblet-style glasses it is served in.

Eating later at Fiera, Italian for “the better fair”, an amazing restaurant in the former stock exchange, this fine dining spot boasts an impressive interior design, housed in the historical Schippersbeurs next to the Handelsbeurs.

Open ravioli North Sea lobster served with a langoustine gravy was the perfect way to end the day and walking back through the Grote Markt afterwards, I stopped to admire the Brabo fountain in the middle of the square.

The legend is that Brabo killed a giant who demanded a very expensive toll for every ship that wanted to enter the city. If the crew did not have enough to pay the toll, their hands would be cut off. Brabo fought the giant, cutting off his hand, and threw it in the river, which is the depiction of the statue and also the meaning of the name of the city - Antwerpen - hand warped meaning to throw a hand.

Souvenirs in every shape commemorate the event throughout the shops in the city with chocolates and biscuits the most popular.

On my second and final day I ventured into the area around the Hendrik Conscience Heritage Library with its famous Nottebohm room. The moment you step into this building the smell of over 120,000 books creates an atmosphere of calm and reflection, reminding me of a scene from a library in Hogwarts and Harry Potter.

Leaving here I spied a group of people sitting outside a small eatery, name it, and the lure of a simple menu of Quiche and soup tempted me.

Maries has a simple approach of just two homemade items to choose from and a bowl of tomato soup with meatballs followed by a salmon and spinach quiche. And this is a great example of the diversity of the city, from simple frites and mayonnaise to expensive lobster ravioli, from burgers flame grilled on a barbecue to soup and quiche, everything and everyone is catered for.

Heading into the fashion district the Fashion Museum of Antwerp is located right in the heart. A dynamic museum that saddles the fence between contemporary fashion culture and the historical past well, with so many features that even the most unfashionable could not help but to become immersed, spending several hours just looking through the many features on show.

If fashion is not enough to tempt you then its most famous accessory may do? The diamond district has been at the centre of the diamond trading game for hundreds of years and still, to this day, holds perhaps the most important destination for rough or polished jewels.

If you can imagine Hatton Garden in London, then treble that experience to understand the volume of diamond shops. And, if you are actually looking to treat yourself, then Antwerp is the only place in Belgium where you can barter over the price.

I left Antwerp after 48 hours and it was a strange feeling I departed with.

On the one hand I felt I had achieved a great deal in my time there, but deep down I knew that I had barely scratched the surface, so much so that I am already planning a return to see the Christmas market at the end of the year.