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Head chef of the Ambrette at Margate and Canterbury, Dev Biswal talks serving up Kentish food with an international flavour

Creating unique flavours is Dev Biswal’s passion.

Training in London, followed by Dubai, the chef now brings an international flavour to Kent, running the Ambrette restaurants in Canterbury and Margate. Yet keeping things Kentish is crucial.

He said: “We’re a multi-cultural team but the Ambrette refuses to be boxed in and confined into the category of ethnic or Indian restaurants.

“At the same time, we widen our horizons and source food from all corners of the globe. We’re also actively engaged in the local community on a social level. On a larger scale, we believe in sustainability.”

Supporting the county’s farmers, both restaurants use favourite local ingredients such as Kentish rapeseed oil, potatoes and foraged wild foods such as marjoram.

Dev likes to literally spice things up in the kitchen by experimenting with flavours.

He said: “I have always liked to be experimental. As a chef, I spend a lot of hours in the kitchen and get easily bored by routine and monotony – experiments and imagination keep the passion alive.

“I would always say to be adventurous in your approach to cooking.

The Ambrette lamb pie
The Ambrette lamb pie

“Treat it the same way as any creative pursuit. The roast, pasta and spaghetti bolognese you have attempted are not just meant to fill the stomach – they need to appeal to your senses too!

“It’s important that we enjoy the process of creating great food and not worry too much about recipe books, weights and measures.”

Away from the restaurant kitchen, Dev likes to cook the dishes he ate as a child and also do simple, quick dishes such as salads and stir fries.

He’s also keen to encourage vegetarian cooking.

“I grew up amongst it and find great satisfaction in eating fresh and simple vegetarian dishes such as a vegetable kedgeree (minus the fish), a spicy lentil dahl or some stir-fried spinach.”

Catch up on food and drink news every week in the KM Group's What's On and click here to read an interview with chef Jeff Kipp of Saltwood on the Green in Hythe.

DETAILS

The Ambrette in Margate is in King Street in the Old Town, telephone 01843 231504
The Ambrette in Canterbury is in Beer Cart Lane, telephone 01227 200777
There is also an Ambrette restaurant in Rye, just across the county border in East Sussex
For details go to theambrette.co.uk

What to eat?
A three-course lunch at The Ambrette in Canterbury costs £20.95, try the lamb pie or belly of Kentish pork with stir fried broccoli, spiced apple chutney, spiced dauphinoise potatoes, homemade crackling and sauce of malt vinegar and garlic wine as a main. There’s also an a la carte menu and a tasting menu.

Here Dev gives his receipe for AMBRETTE LAMB PIE WITH SAMOSA PASTRY

(Serves 6)
Ingredients
Leg of lamb 1kg boneless cut into ½ inch cubes
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
½ tsp whole black pepper
1 green, 1 black cardamom pod and 1 pinch of cinnamon
1 white onion, sliced
4 medium sized tomatoes, quartered
1 tsp ginger paste, ½ tsp garlic paste
½ fresh green chilli
½ tsp red chilli powder/1 tsp turmeric powder
1 medium sized potato, diced and fried
1 pinch saffron dissolved in a tbsp of warm milk
1 pinch ground nutmeg
½ bunch chopped coriander
1 sprig of mint
Lemon juice
For the potato topping:
4 medium sized potatoes, boiled and grated
1tsp ginger paste/ 1/2 tsp garlic paste
¼ green chilli finely chopped
2 tbsp butter
100ml water
200ml single cream
Lemon juice
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 block of samosa, or spring roll pastry.

1. Heat oil in a large pan. Temper black pepper, cinnamon, crushed green cardamom and black cardamom. When the spices crackle, add onions and fry. Add salt to speed up caramelisation. Add ginger, garlic, chilli, turmeric and chilli powder and fry for three minutes. Add tomatoes and cook to a reddish brown mash.
2. Add the cubed lamb and cook until seared well and the meat changes colour. This process should take two hours on a low to medium heat. Add small amount of water if the mixture gets dry.
3. Prepare the potato topping by heating the butter and adding the ginger, garlic, chilli and lightly fry. Add the grated potatoes and cook. Add water and cream and cook together to a thick creamy consistency; add lemon juice, black pepper and salt to taste.
4. After the meat has simmered for two hours, add the potatoes, saffron, nutmeg, fresh coriander and mint and season. Cook the pastry according to pack instructions. Line the pie mix in a mould or ring. Top with the potato topping and a square of the pastry. Enjoy hot!

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