A year back I visited the town of Waterloo in Belgium just after the anniversary of the famous battle of 1815, an event that saw the end of Napoleon and altered Europe forever. Not having time to cram everything in I wanted, I returned this year to complete my must-do list.

For many heading past Brussels on their way towards Germany, Waterloo is just a signpost on the road, but turn off and head towards the 1830 memorial and the small Walloon town takes on a role of its own.

I travelled over the channel from Dover with Irish Ferries, enjoying the spacious lounges and restaurants that let me plan my weekend in style. Just two hours after landing at Calais I was checking into the Van der Valk Hotel Nivelles, near Waterloo.

Enjoying the spa and swimming pool before being spoiled for choice by the extensive menu in the restaurant, it was a perfect way to be ready for a full day of action.

Once a year, on or near the anniversary, up to 800 re-enactors from across Europe converge on Waterloo to replay the key part of the battle.

The event starts at the memorial which helps you understand through interactive displays and historical artifacts, how and where the battle of Sunday, June 18 1815, took place.

That day saw 300,000 men from seven different nations clash, with roughly a sixth of that figure being killed or wounded. Uniforms, animations, drums and insignia are on display at the memorial, and all play a part in the build-up to the re-enactment that takes place on the exact spot of the battle.

In case you didn’t know, the French army under the command of Napoleon was defeated by two of the armies of the Seventh Coalition: a force consisting of units from Britain, the German Legion, the Netherlands, Hanover, Brunswick and Nassau.

Two hundred-odd years later, re-enactors formed different camps around the area with dedicated buses ferrying the public from point to point. The French soldiers were billeted near the Waterloo brewery, with the English and their allies camped out near Hougoumont.

The Hougoumont farm stands right in the centre of the battlefield of Waterloo. The farm suffered heavy damage during the battle itself and today it still bears the scars of the fighting. Even the chestnut trees surrounding the buildings still have bullet holes in them.

These sites were amazingly detailed with the soldiers joined by a full supporting cast; women cooking, tradesmen shoeing horses and children collecting firewood. As the tension built, soldiers practiced drills, cannons were carefully placed in position and the cavalry prepared their steeds ready for action, with the banks around the area quickly filling with spectators.

Over 90 minutes the battle unfurled in front of the crowds, telling the story of the day in segments, with infantry battalions building up in the area ready to defend against an attack by the Napoleonic regiments.

Line after line of muskets fired, cannon balls flew, the ground exploded and the cavalry charged in. No need for sound effects here as you felt right in the centre of the action as hooves thundered across the ground.

This was a living history display with something for everyone. Families with small children, some wearing outfits, soaked up the enthralling live display.

Never mind the blockbuster film Napoleon, made in the 1970s and involving 15,000 extras for the battle scenes, this made you feel as if you were one of those extras, with explosions happening just feet away from the packed viewing areas.

Afterwards, I discovered there is now an immersive experience available where, by spending the night at a bivouac at the Hougoumont farm, you could learn how to light a fire, cook like the soldiers of yesteryear, and partake in the history of the event, dressed in period clothes.

Having already visited Waterloo twice I can say with confidence that I shall be back again very soon, and who knows, maybe next time I shall be in uniform and with a sword?

FACTS

Irish Ferries is the market leading and award-winning ferry operator in Ireland, serving routes between Britain (Holyhead to Dublin, and Pembroke to Rosslare) and Ireland, and Britain and France (Dover to Calais).

Launched in June 2021, Irish Ferries’ Dover-Calais route operates up to 30 sailings a day, with a fleet of three ships, including Isle of Inishmore, Isle of Innisfree and Isle of Inisheer, throughout the year. Fares start from £80 each way for car and up to nine passengers. Pets travel free however must be pre-booked.

For more information, see the Irish Ferries website.

Prices are fluid and dependent on demand for space on the designated departure, as well as how long in advance of travel the booking is being made. Additional terms & conditions can be viewed on the Irish Ferries website.

Van der Valk Hotel Nivelles is at Chaussée de Mons 22, Nivelles

https://www.valk.com/en

For information and details on the Waterloo Memorial 1815, which is open 365 days a year, click here