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Travel review: 48 hours in the foodie paradise and cultural mecca of Istanbul, Turkey

By: Sean Delaney sdelaney@thekmgroup.co.uk

Published: 18:15, 02 April 2023

Updated: 16:18, 12 April 2023

As I stand atop the Galata Tower – one of Istanbul's iconic viewing spots – I ignore the dull roar of traffic below and peer out across the beautiful Bosphorus river.

The strategic waterway straddles both sides of Turkey's largest city and cultural capital, linking both Europe and Asia.

The Galata Tower in Istanbul. Photo: Go Turkiye/ Turkish Tourism Agency (TGA) release

"Wow," I remark to my tour guide Yavuz, still trying to catch my breathe. "So this is where east meets west".

Istanbul, or Constantinople as it was formerly known, has captivated visitors for centuries with its unique blend of historic mosques, palaces, cisterns, and bustling bazaars.

Few cities on Earth can rival its eclectic mix of architecture for raw beauty nor, as I was about to find out, its gastronomic delights.

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My three-day trip was my first time in Istanbul and I was excited to start exploring the bulging metropolis I had heard so much about.

I arrived at the newly rebuilt airport – recently named the world's best – after a mere three hour and 40 minute flight with WizzAir aboard their new charter from London.

The Galata watch tower offers panoramic views of Istanbul, Turkey. Photo: Sean Delaney
Art, culture and delicious food combine in this cultural mecca which straddles two continents. Photo: Sean Delaney
Istanbul's nostalgic tramways are a quirky way to explore the European side of the city. Photo: Sean Delaney

First up on my 48-hour tour was a trip to the Galata Tower, one of the city's visual icons dominating the districts of Beyoğlu and Karaköy.

Its exact construction date is unknown but it is thought to have been erected during the reign of Emperor Justinian around 507 BCE.

We took one of the two elevators up to the top which broadcast bright and colourful visuals of the tower's past.

From there you have to take two flights of stairs to reach the observation deck where you can learn more about the city and enjoy a 360 degree view from the balcony.

One of the interesting tales we learnt about included that of Ottoman aviator Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi who, according to local legend, flew from the top of the tower to nearby Üsküdar with wings attached to his arms.

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However, this spectacular feat aroused suspicion from then Sultan Murad Khan who sent him to exile in Algeria.

Koskeroglu baklava. Photo: Sean Delaney
Baklava tasting. Photo: Sean Delaney

My visit coincided with the holy month of Ramadan and so – as my guide informed me – the streets were notably quieter.

It was also wet and windy throughout my stay but this didn't dampen my mood or appetite for exploration.

Of course no trip to Turkey would be complete without indulging in some syrup-soaked baklava.

Keen to taste test we ventured to a restaurant specialising in the layered pastry dessert which is filled with chopped nuts and gently spiced with cinnamon.

I tossed back each tiny mouthful of pistachio with continued delight – unsure my dentist would appreciate the sentiment upon my next visit.

But Istanbul's gastronomical pull is not just for those with a sweet tooth and indeed the city is a real foodie paradise.

Turkish tapas at Muutto Restaurant at the Galataport. Photo: Sean Delaney
Turkish tapas at Muutto Restaurant at the Galataport. Photo: Sean Delaney

There are no shortage of dining options, from amazing street food to high-end michelin star eateries.

During my stay I truly dined out like a sultan.

Our evening meal, like most here, starts with a series of Mezes – Turkish tapas tasting plates– at Muuto Anatolian in Galataport, Istanbul's brand-new mega cruise port and waterfront leisure destination.

The port hosts a myriad of cultural, dining, shopping options and was one of the most impressive sights I encountered.

Huge amounts of investment has gone into making the area a vibrant and trendy destination to complement the city's more older, historic offerings.

And at the time of writing there are plans for a mammoth three-year around the world cruise, set to depart from Istanbul in November.

Eating like a Sultan at the Matbah Restaurant in Istanbul's old quarters. Photo: Sean Delaney
This baklava and rice pudding combo was a winner. Photo: Sean Delaney

On the second day our umbrella-wielding tour guide takes us to Sultanahmet, also known as the 'Old City'.

High on the agenda was the Hagia Sophia, a 6th-century architectural wonder built in 360 AD.

It was for more than a thousand years a Christian church before an invasion under the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II saw it converted into a mosque and its golden mosaics and frescoes painted over with Islamic motifs and patterns.

Inside the Hagia Sophia. =Photo: Sean Delaney

At the turn of the 20th century, the mosque was converted to a museum and remained so for many years before changing back in 2020.

Inside it's hard not to become enamoured with its staggering beauty and the lightness of the building.

Another personal highlight of my trip was the visit to another of the city's iconic monuments to the past, the Basilica Cistern.

The Basilica Cistern is well worth a visit. Photo: Sean Delaney
This Imhotep-type figure was freakishly breaktaking inside the Basilica Cistern. Photo: Sean Delaney
Art and culture combine at the Istanbul's Archaeology Museum. Photo: Sean Delaney

Nestled in the heart of Istanbul the ancient water reservoir is an enduring symbol of old Turkey when under Byzantine and Ottoman rule.

Similar to the catacombs of Paris, it is one of many hundreds lying underground and was used for filming in the 1963 James Bond movie From Russia With Love.

However, unlike its French counterpart great effort has gone into illuminating its history with fun light displays and interactive exhibits.

We also enjoyed trips to the city's archaeological museum and an exhibition celebrating the cinematic genius of Stanley Kubrick.

Istanbul is also home to great shopping destinations including the 557-year-old Grand Bazaar.

The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey. Photo: Sean Delaney
Turkish butcher Nusret Gökçe, aka Salt Bae, has a restaurant inside the Grand Bazaar. Photo: Sean Delaney

Inside the largest indoor market in the world you can shop for Turkish goods including carpets, ceramics, jewellery, or stock up on edibles such as condiments and spices.

It's also home to a restaurant by Instagram-famous Turkish butcher Nusret Gökçe, who became known as "Salt Bae" after his technique for preparing and seasoning meat became an internet meme.

I can't vouch for how good it is however as I side-stepped this in favour of some more authentic Ottoman cuisine at the phenomenal Matbah restaurant.

It was here I devoured a mix of prawn, aubergine and meat dishes, finished by a classic baklava and a rice pudding desert.

At the end of my three days of gastro-indulgence in Istanbul I was left feeling there was still so much more to see and eat.

And while the journey was gladly over for my waistline I will undoubtedly be back.

Sunset selfie

Sean was a guest of Go Türkiye goturkiye.com

How to get there: Wizz Air flies daily from London Luton to Istanbul, with one-way fares starting from £30.99.

For more information, visit www.wizzair.com.

Where to stay: I stayed at the The Marmara Pera Hotel just a short journey away from all the action. Visit themarmarahotels.com/pera

Rooms start from £109 a night. Visit themarmarahotels.com/pera for more details.

Where to eat: Far too many choices to recount. But my picks were street food and meze bar Muutto (muutto.com.tr) in Galataport, and the Divan Brasserie Fuaye divan.com.tr/restaurant/divan-brasserie-fuaye at Istanbul's new Ataturk Cultural Center.

Booking in advanced is advised for both.

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