He's worked in some of the busiest restaurant kitchens in the capital, but these days chef Jeff Kipp can be found in a quiet corner of Hythe.

However, don’t think his kitchen is any less buzzing than the Savoy or one of the Gordon Ramsay establishments he used to work for. In fact, he wouldn’t want it any other way.

After moving out of the kitchen and into consultancy, there was something missing.

"I wanted to get back to running a restaurant," he said. "There’s the buzz of the kitchen. I really missed cooking – that excitement."

Jeff, 49, and wife Kate moved to Hythe and it wasn’t long before he’d spotted what was to become Saltwood on the Green.

"I used to drive by and think ‘That’s a cracking place for a restaurant’. It had so much potential, it just needed a bit of love. It was the end goal to have a smallish place, a little bit out of the way in the country.

"That was always in the back of my head. It was just a matter of figuring out how to get it!"

The village’s restored general store became Jeff’s first business venture, serving up fine dining.

"Owning your own restaurant is very direct," said Jeff.

"If there is a stumble you feel it directly because it is yours. And you all share in the successes. There is a different kind of thrill."

The restaurant has just five main courses on the menu daily, from Romney Marsh lamb, glazed beetroot and pumpkin to Rye Bay brill, artichokes and potato anna. It serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.

"It’s a creative business, the season and location is what drives the food. But some nights everyone wants fish – that happens! Right now we are doing homely dishes, like braised ox cheeks. I try to cook meals for everybody."

Last year, despite being a "little bit out the way", Observer critic Jay Rayner visited and gave a glowing review.

The father of three said: "He said ‘Just bring me what you want off the dinner menu’. His job is to be critical, but it was a fantastic review. A national review brought more local people in – sometimes that’s the way it works."

Catch up on Kentish food and drink news every week in the KM Group's What's On. Click here for an interview with Allan Pickett, chef and owner of Piquet in London.

JEFF'S RECIPE FOR BRAISED OX CHEEKS

(Serves 4)
3 or 4 ox cheeks
4 medium carrots (peeled and left whole)
4 small banana shallots (halved, peeled and root trimmed)
4 stalks of celery (cut in half, reserve leaves for garnish)
4 large cloves of garlic
4 sprigs of thyme
½ piece of star anise
1 strip of orange zest
2 bay leaves
A few bits of parsley stems (chop leaves for garnish)
750 ml of beef or chicken stock
6 table spoons of olive oil for searing

1. Pre- heat the oven to 150C. Trim the ox cheeks of excess fat and any visible connective tissue (usually on one side of the cheek.) Cut each cheek in half. Over medium-high heat, sear the cheeks in a large pan with 2 tbs, try not to crowd the pan – you want to the cheeks coloured evenly. You may need to do this in batches. Remove the cheeks and set aside.

2. Reduce the heat to medium. Pour off any excess fat that may have accumulated in the pan. Add 2 tTbs of fresh oil and add each of the vegetables (carrots, shallots and celery) individually to the pan and colour each type so they have started to brown slightly. Set them aside. Add the garlic cloves and tomato paste. Cook until the garlic browns slightly and the tomato puree starts to dry slightly.

3. Add the vegetables, and the remaining ingredients. Add the stock and with a wooden spoon, scrape all of the lovely brown bits off of the bottom of the pan. Add the ox cheeks back to the pan. Bring iteverything back to a gentle simmer, cover and place in the oven for 2 ½ hours;, check after two. The cheeks should be soft but not falling apart. Remove from the oven and allow to cool uncovered. The vegetables should also be cooked through but not falling apart.

4. Strain off most of the liquid into a new pan and reduce the liquid by a third. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the liquid back to the pan.
5. To serve: Reheat the cheeks in their cooking liquor. Carefully remove the vegetables and cheeks. Place artfully in bowls with your chosen accompaniment.

At Saltwood on the Green we serve our braised ox cheeks with herbed dumplings - It would be equally good with chunky mash or creamy polenta. Finish by pouring a ladle full of the cooking liquor and garnish with thyme leaves, fresh parsley and celery leaves.

DETAILS

Saltwood on the Green is at The Green, Saltwood, Hythe.
To book, call 01303 237 800 or visit www.saltwoodrestaurant.co.uk