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Words by Daniel Esson
I had little concept of what alpine luxury actually entailed before going, but that’s what I got at Chilly Powder, in eastern France.
Situated in the hamlet of Prodains, between the town of Morzine and ski resort Avoriaz, Chilly Powder is in the perfect location for skiing.
The walk to the ski lift up to Avoriaz is slightly hilly and difficult in ski boots, but nowhere near as arduous as the journey many other skiers seemed to be making from the nearby towns and villages.
The chalet-hotel itself is a picture-postcard image of luxury living in the mountains, with wood-beamed architecture, a roaring fire, beautiful views and all the amenities of home.
The family-run business offers both catered and self-catered options, but I would strongly recommend going for at least half-board.
“Half-board” is underselling it, as the included food consists of continental breakfast, afternoon tea, and dinner with an ample supply of wine.
Every evening the dinner was three courses - providing for all sorts of dietary needs.
Each meal made me progressively less smug about my own cooking prowess, with each course of a quality you’re lucky to get even in very nice hotels here in Britain.
Standout dishes included a vegetarian borscht (beetroot-based soup) from the Ukrainian chef’s own recipe, and a quinoa and mushroom stuffed pepper.
In the tradition of English people on holiday - I’d strongly recommend taking the time to have numerous servings of the continental breakfast to prepare for the day.
Having never skied before, getting lessons seemed essential to keep myself and my best friend from needing to use medical insurance.
We had two days of private lessons with just the two of us and teacher George Treble of Avoriaz Alpine Ski School.
Without these lessons there’s no doubt I would have either given up trying to ski at all or ended up in severe physical disrepair.
The first day of lessons was testing, but by the end of the second we had confidently and safely covered quite some distance on tame green runs.
The ski equipment rental provided by Doorstep Skis saved my ankles from damage on many occasions, and rapidly dispelled my complaints about the rigidity of ski boots.
Though, nothing quite prepares you for the aches and pains in places you didn’t know you had if you’re a first time skiier, but it’s nothing a good stretch before and after won’t sort.
Having never skied before I had only a dim idea of what “apres-ski” involved before going to Morzine. There are options to drink and dance up in Avoriaz itself directly after finishing skiing - if you’re brave enough to do either of those while fully kitted out in ski gear.
There is also the popular option of a small drink before actually skiing - though the French standard unit for spirits seems to be larger than at home so caution is advised.
Irish coffees are a particular favourite, and while folklore and opinions differ regarding the effect of altitude on alcohol, tipsiness felt a bit more pronounced when sat on a snowy mountain.
For those who are less optimistic about their balance and coordination on an evening out - the nearby town of Morzine is a short bus journey or a medium-length scenic walk from Chilly Powder, and is the ideal place to experience nightlife in the mountains.
As a resort, there are ample restaurants, bars, pubs, as well as the quaint bakeries you’d expect in a small French town.
Public transport around the whole surrounding area is exclusively buses, which are free, frequent and easily navigable even for those who can scarcely utter a word of French - though as with any holiday it’s a good idea to brush up enough to be polite.
Chilly Powder operates all year round, so it’s perfect whether you’re looking to hit the ski slopes or hop on your mountain bike. There are extensive winter holiday packages on offer for individuals, groups and families with winter prices starting from €995 per person per week based on two adults sharing a double or twin bedroom or €2,760 per week for two adults and two children sharing a standard family room. Prices based on a half board basis with wine included in evening meals.
Childcare facilities are also available with prices starting at €350 per week and ski school for €320 per week. The chalet also offers self-catered and B&B options in both summer and winter, and is available for weddings and events.
The area is much less busy but no less beautiful during the summer months, where Chilly Powder remains open and rather than ski, biking, hiking and other activities are available.
To learn more or to making a booking, contact Chilly Powder on info@chillypowder.com or 020 7289 6958 or visit www.chillypowder.com
For ski rental, contact www.doorstepskis.com, and for skiing lessons from beginner to advanced, visit www.avoriazalpineskischool.com.